2020-08-21 10:07:24 -07:00
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# RaceChronoDiyBleDevice
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2020-08-21 10:20:07 -07:00
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DIY BLE device for RaceChrono, currently supports reading data from the CAN bus.
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There are some optimizations in the code that are specific to the FT86 platform
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cars (Subaru BRZ, Toyota 86, Scion FR-S), but it should be straightforward to
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tweak the code for other cars.
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## Supported Hardware
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* Adafruit Feather nRF52832
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* Adafruit ItsyBitsy nRF52840 Express
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* 16 MHz MCP2515 breakout boards (probably MCP25625 as well)
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## Prerequisites
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You will need to install two libraries for Arduino:
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```sh
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cd ~/Documents/Arduino/libraries/ # ~/Arduino/libraries on Mac OS
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git clone https://github.com/timurrrr/arduino-CAN CAN
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git clone https://github.com/timurrrr/arduino-RaceChrono arduino-RaceChrono
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```
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It's important that you don't use the arduino-CAN library available in the
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Arduino IDE built-in library manager, as it has multiple bugs, and many
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operations are implemented in an ineffective way. My pull requests to address
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those have not been reviewed at the time of writing.
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2020-08-21 10:36:39 -07:00
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2020-08-27 22:25:58 -07:00
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## Assembling
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Recommended parts list:
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* [Adafruit ItsyBitsy nRF52840 Express](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4481)
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* [MCP2515 boards](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J9KZ4L4/) (2+ pcs recommended so you can test without a car)
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* [16 MHz quarz oscillators](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ82OM0/) (in case your MCPs have 8 MHz quartzes)
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* [Jumper](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9044) (in case your MCP comes without it, like mine)
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* [Mini Breadboard](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12047)
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* [Jumper wires](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/124)
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* [JST SM connectors](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QG2TN1X/)
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* Crimping tool for JST connectors
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* ~22 AWG wires
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First, solder the male headers to your microcontroller board.
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You'll need G, USB, SCK, MO, MI and 7.
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It's also recommended to solder 9, R and 3V for future improvements and
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mechanical stability on the breadboard.
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Soldering male headers is a lot easier if you first insert them into a
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breadboard.
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Put the jumpers on the breadboard this way to allow for neat hidden
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connections:
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Then, put the microcontroller board on the breadboard:
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Un-solder the header from the MCP board and solder a new header on the other
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side of the board to make it more breadboard-friendly.
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Replace the 8 MHz quartzes on your MCPs with 16 MHz quartzes, if needed.
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Install the jumper that connects the 120 Ohm terminal resistor.
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Optionally, un-solder the screw terminal and solder a twisted pair of wires to
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the board, and finish with a nice JST SM connector:
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Finally, put the MCP on the breadboard.
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Check connections:
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MCP pin | Microcontroller pin
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------- | ------------------
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VCC | USB
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GND | G
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CS | 7
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SO | MI
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SI | MO
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SCK | SCK
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INT | Currently unused, may use 9 in the future
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Optionally, put everything into a nice enclosure.
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2020-08-21 10:36:39 -07:00
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## Testing
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2020-08-27 22:29:25 -07:00
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You don't need to always be in the car to test changes.
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Instead, you can build another device (possibly using a cheaper board, such as
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Arduino Uno), and use the
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[FakeSubaruBRZ example](https://github.com/timurrrr/arduino-CAN/tree/master/examples/FakeSubaruBRZ)
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from my fork of the `arduino-CAN` library, and connect the two boards into a
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small CAN network.
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