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Adding BMM guides to wiki
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# Miata MX5 Quick Start Guide
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So, you've just got yourself a shiny new BMM MX5 Miata ECU for your NA or NB, nice! If you're wondering how to install and get it running, you've come to the right place. This guide will cover how to install the ECU to the car with a Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband oxygen sensor and a mass air pressure (MAP) line. Installation of additional sensors or peripherals is covered in the advanced guides.
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> **_NOTE:_** Before commencing the ECU installation, it is recommended to jack up the car or drive it onto ramps in the case when the oxygen sensor location is under the vehicle.
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## Required Tools and Components
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- BMM Miata ECU
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- BMM wideband adapter harness
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- BMM options port pigtail
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- Genuine Bosch LSU 4.9 oxygen sensor
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- 3 metres of silicone vacuum hose 5/32" or 4mm internal diameter
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- 4mm straight barb joiner
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- 22mm wrench or 22mm oxygen sensor socket
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- Timing light
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- USB cable (included with ECU)
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- Windows, Mac or Linux laptop with an installed copy of [EFI Analytics TunerStudio](https://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio)
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- Spanner and socket set
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## Removing Original ECU
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The stock ECU location for a Miata will be in one of three spots depending on the driving side and year:
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### Left Hand Drive NB
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The ECU can be found above the pedals, next to the steering column.
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### 90-93 Left Hand Drive NA and Right Hand Drive NA/NB
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The ECU can be found under the carpet in the passenger side footwell. To access this, the carpet needs to be unhooked from the vertical trim piece on the edge closest to the passenger door. Removing this trim piece can also simplify access. The ECU kick plate will also need to be removed after taking off the five 10mm nuts and bolts holding it in place.
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### 94-97 Right Hand Drive NA
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The ECU can be found behind the passenger's seat, under the carpet. Move the seat forwards all the way. Next, the passenger door sill needs to be removed with a philips head screwdriver so that the carpet towards the back of the seat can be pulled back to reveal the ECU.
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Once the ECU has been located on your Miata, disconnect the car battery then remove all electrical plugs to the ECU. Un-bolt any remaining ECU mounting brackets from the car with a 10mm socket and the ECU should now be free from the car. The last step is to use a philips head to remove the factory ECU mounting brackets from the stock ECU case for these will be needed to mount the BMM ECU.
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## Connecting Wideband Oxygen Sensor
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> **_NOTE:_** It is imperative that you use a genuine Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor rather than a cloned product. A fake LSU 4.9 will not provide accurate readings and can cause a lot of headaches down the track. The best way of avoiding a fake sensor is to buy directly from a reputable supplier of vehicle parts rather than generic large online re-sellers. Typical part numbers for this Bosch sensor include: 17025, 17212, 17123 and 17217. The notable difference between these part numbers is the cable length so it is recommended to measure what length you need ahead of time.
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Find the factory oxygen sensor on the exhaust and unplug it from the wiring harness. In the case that the car has multiple oxygen sensors, the one to remove is the closest sensor to the engine block before any catalytic converters. Next, unscrew the sensor and replace it with a Bosch LSU 4.9 wide-band sensor. Connect the sensor to the BMM wideband adapter harness. The trailing end of the harness will need to be fed through the firewall into the cabin. The easiest way of doing this, as shown in the image below, is to cut a hole in the nearest firewall bung to the stock ECU location, and feed the cable through that. Cable tie the wiring away from any hot areas of the engine bay. Inside the cabin, connect the wideband adaptor harness plug to the options port pigtail and plug it into the ECU.
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### Using an External Wideband Controller
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In the case you wish to use an external wideband controller such as an _AEM X-Series Wideband UEGO AFR Sensor Controller Gauge_, the wideband sensor should be plugged into the wideband controller instead of directly into the ECU. The best way to wire in the controller is directly to the old narrow band oxygen sensor plug on the car based off the diagram below. In this diagram, pin 1 goes to the controller analogue output, pin 2 to the signal ground, pin 3 to the controller 12V input and pin 4 to the other controller ground (if applicable). Make sure to double check the voltages on the pins before connecting the controller to them. The external controller also requires additional setup in Tuner Studio which will be covered later.
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## Connecting MAP Line
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Look around the intake manifold for any spare vacuum ports that lie after the throttle body and connect the vacuum line. If there are no spare ports, pick one and attach the vacuum line to it using a tee piece. It is recommended but not required to cable tie the vacuum line to the tee. In the image below, there was a free vacuum port on the back of the intake manifold which has been tee'ed off into the MAP line and the blow off valve line (only applicable on turbo charged vehicles).
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Like the oxygen sensor, feed the line through the bung in the firewall to the ECU. If you have a 4mm barb joiner, connect the vacuum line to the vacuum line protruding from the BMM ECU case. If you do not have a barb joiner, open up the BMM ECU case with a philips head and feed the vacuum line through the case. Mock up the position of the case in the car before cutting the vacuum line to length. Pull the vacuum line onto the MAP sensor on the ECU (the sensor with the nipple on it pictured below) and optionally fasten it with a small cable tie. The ECU can now be put back into its case.
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Using the MAP line combined with an intake air temperature (IAT) sensor, the BMM ECU can run the car using what is known as speed-density air metering. This means that you can unplug the mass air flow (MAF) sensor or the air flow meter (AFM) for the NA 1.6L vehicles. Removing these sensors and replacing them with a pod filter directly to the intake can even result in a fractional power increase from the reduction in intake restriction.
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## Additional Steps for NA6 Vehicles
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The NA6 1.6L vehicles which use an AFM instead of a MAF require a few additional modifications to run with a BMM ECU. A manual NA6 do not have a variable throttle position sensor (TPS) like the automatic NA6, later model NAs and all NBs. An NA6 also needs an external intake air temperature (IAT) sensor wired in as the AFM which has one inside is typically removed. They also require a jumper for the ECU to control the fuel pump which was previously the job of the air flow meter.
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The first step is to disconnect the factory TPS sensor. **This is very important or it will cause a short circuit later.**. The TPS sensor location is shown in the image below.
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The BMM ECUs for this vehicle include a KIA TPS and adapter. The KIA TPS will plug straight to the OEM TPS plug without any additional wiring. If using another variable TPS that requires re-wiring, the NA6 TPS connector pinout is as follows:
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| **Function** | **Cable Colour** |
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|--------------|------------------|
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| Signal | Green/White |
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| Ground | Black/Green |
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| 5V Reference | Red |
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The next step is to wire up the IAT sensor and to add a jumper wire to the AFM connector as per the wiring diagram below. Any IAT sensor with two wires can be used although a GM IAT sensor is recommended as FOME already has a configuration for it. As the IAT is a resistance-based sensor, the orientation of the wires does not matter.
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## Connecting the ECU
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Now that the MAP line and wideband are connected to the ECU, the remaining wiring harness plugs from the OEM wiring loom can be plugged into the ECU. Take the factory ECU mounts and attach them to the BMM ECU case. The ECU can now be re-installed into the factory location. The car battery can now be re-connected.
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## Tuner Studio Setup
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Make sure that you have downloaded the latest version of TunerStudio (TS) from [here](<https://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio>). Although the base version of the software is free, it is strongly recommended to buy a license for the additional features including auto-tuning and the ability to customize the default dashboard.
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Begin the setup by plugging the ECU into the laptop and opening TS. Create a new project and click _detect_ under firmware. Select the COM port corresponding to the FOME ECU in the device list. If the COM port cannot be found or the firmware cannot be automatically detected, click _Other/Browse_ and load the .ini file for the ECU which can either be downloaded or found within the ZIP file on the USB device which appears when the ECU is plugged into the computer.
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In the next dialog choose between lambda or air fuel ratio (AFR) as your display units. lambda is recommended as it is easier to comprehend and tune with. For example, the ideal or stoichiometric AFR for regular petrol is 14.7 (14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel) which corresponds with a lambda of 1. Lambda represents the percentage of air in the combustion chamber compared to the amount needed for ideal or stoichiometric combustion to occur. If a car is running 10% lean, the AFR would be 16.17 and lambda would be 1.1. If the car is 10% rich, AFR would be 13.36 and lambda would be 0.9. Looking at lambda, it is instantly obvious what percentage rich or lean the engine is running but with AFR, it requires more effort. **The only time AFR should be selected here is if you are using an external wideband controller**.
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In the third dialog box, configure it as shown in the image below but select the com port which corresponds to your ECU. If unsure, go to the device manager on your computer and it should list the COM port number next to the name of the ECU. Click _Test Port_ and if successful, move to the next dialog.
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In the final dialog box, select the default gauge layout (you can change this later as you wish) and click _finish_. The last step before cranking the engine is to click the _Ignition_ button to open the ignition settings and change the timing mode from _dynamic_ to _fixed_ and the fixed timing setting to 10 degrees. This will lock the engine to operate at 10 degrees of timing so that you can set the base timing.
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### Additional Tuner Studio Steps for an External Wideband Controller
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To set up the external wideband controller there are several additional steps in Tuner Studio. First, your display units should be set to AFR for this as already stated. If you forgot to do this earlier, press _CTRL + P_ to open the vehicle properties. Now, open the _Aux Sensors_ dialog under _Sensors_ and the _Full Pinout 3/3_ dialog under _Controllers_. As per the diagram below, set the _AFR ADC Input_ and _ADC Input_ to the pin corresponding with _O2S_ (pin 2C for the example). for the values in the _Aux Linear Sensor #1_ box you need to reference the manual of your wideband controller for what voltages correspond to its AFR outputs. In the example below, 0V corresponds to an AFR of 10.0 and 4.99V corresponds to an AFR of 19.98. Once these are set, click _Burn_.
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After completing all of the setup steps, you can go ahead and turn the car key two clicks to _ON_ and listed for the fuel pump priming. Once the fuel pump has primed, go ahead and start the engine. Let it run for a few seconds and turn it off again. **Do not drive the vehicle yet, there are still several steps to complete before the car is ready for a drive**.
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## Set Base Timing
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The car should start on the base map although once it is running, the base timing needs to be set up. This syncs the timing between the ECU and the car so that they are both reading the same values. Typically. the base timing will be a few degrees out from the base map as it varies slightly from car to car.
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To set the base timing, connect the timing light power to a spare 12V battery and the inductive clamp onto the cylinder 1 spark plug lead (the closest spark plug to the front of the engine bay). Ensure that the arrow on the inductive clamp is pointing along the wire towards the spark plug, not towards the coil pack.
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In TS, under _Ignition_ > _Ignition Settings_, set the timing mode to _fixed_ and _10_ degrees then burn the configuration.
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Now start the car and hold the timing gun trigger, shining the light onto the bottom harmonic damper pulley on the front of the engine. This pulley has two timing marks on it and a labelled cover above it. When the timing is spot on, these marks on the rotating pulley will line up with the _10_ and _T_ marks on the cover as shown below.
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If your timing marks do not line up like in the image above, you will need to change the base timing. Count how many marks the timing is off by and turn the car engine off. In TS, go to _Base Engine_ > _Trigger_ and increase/decrease the _Trigger Advance Angle_ by the amount of marks the timing was off by then burn the configuration. Repeat this process until the timing marks line up then change the timing mode back from _fixed_ to _dynamic_.
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## First Drive and Tuning the VE Table
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Everything is now ready to take your Miata for its first drive. You can't go and thrash it straight away though as the VE table which determines the fuelling needs to be tuned for your vehicle. Before you take the car for a drive, make sure your laptop is charged.
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Start the car and plug the laptop in. Within 30 seconds, the lambda gauge should wake up and start displaying a value. For now, you want that value to be around 1 meaning that the exact amount of fuel is being supplied to the engine for perfect combustion to occur. To change the lambda value, you need to modify the VE Table under _Fuel_ > _VE_. VE stands for volumetric efficiency which is the efficiency that the engine can move the fuel and air mix into and out of the cylinders. An example of a VE table is shown below (do not copy this table as it is off a highly modified vehicle). The table adjusts the VE percentage (represented by the numbers on the grid) based on the engine speed (represented as revolutions per minute - RPM) and engine load (represented as the MAP). With the engine running, blip the throttle and see how the indicator moves around the different table cells as the engine state changes.
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The general way to tune the VE table is to go through all the cells which the engine will operate within and to adjust the VE percentage until the lambda gauge matches the value in the _Target Lambda Table_ shown below and in TS found under _Fuel_ > _Target Lambda_. For example, if the lambda gauge shows 1.1 and the target lambda for that engine state is 1.0, the corresponding VE cell needs to be increased by 10%. The target lambda table supplied with the Miata base map should be sufficient to start with but you can modify it later to make the engine run richer or leaner under certain conditions such as boost or highway cruising respectively.
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There are three ways of tuning the VE table. The first way is to drive the car around smoothly as a mate in the passenger seat goes through and changes the VE values until the lambda gauge matches the target lambda. The second and easier way is to use the TS autotuner which is only available in the full version of TS but absolutely worth it. To tune this way, you first need to disable some parameters. Under _Fuel_, open _Closed loop fuel correction_ and _Deceleration fuel cut off (DFCO)_, set them both to false and click _burn_ with the engine off. The third and easiest (yet most expensive option) is to take the car to a dyno for tuning where they will do either the first or second option themselves. The advantage of a dyno is that they can set it to bring the engine into any state they wish to perfectly configure the VE table.
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Next, click the tab labelled _Tune Analyze Live! - Tune For You_ to bring up the autotuner. Click to the _Advanced Settings_ tab and configure it as shown in the image below. These configuration settings are deliberately quite loose so that TS can quickly tune the general shape of the VE table. On the left side of the _VE Table Control Panel_, you also need to check the box marked _Update Controller_ which ensures that the VE table is updated on the ECU as the autotune corrects itself.
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Now that the autotuner is set up, start the car and click _Start Auto Tune_ on the autotuner. Let the car idle in park whilst it gets up to the minimum temperature. While this happens, you can attempt to change the idle cells in the VE table to get them to a lambda of 1. Once the car has warmed up, **smoothly** drive it around going through the gears and all the way through the rev range. A mix of flat, uphill and downhill driving in different gears is optimal to tune the majority of the engine's operating range. After you are sufficiently happy, click _Stop Auto Tune_, turn the engine off and click _Save on ECU_. You will want to repeat this process several more times, every time dropping the _Cell Change Resistance_ and _Authority Limits_ to slowly refine your VE table.
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When you are satisfied with your VE table, turn closed loop fuel correction and _Deceleration fuel cut off (DFCO)_ back to true. You don't actually need DFCO to be enabled although it will save fuel by turning the injectors off when the car is rolling in gear. Your Miata should now be relatively safe to drive but this is only the start of the tuning journey. As you read through the more advanced guides in this wiki, you will learn about all of the different ways the ECU can be configured to improve the drivability and squeeze every drop of performance out of your Miata.
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# Miata 36T Trigger Wheel Installation
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A trigger wheel with more teeth on the crankshaft provides a finer resolution of the crankshaft position signal. This finer resolution enhances timing control, reduces signal noise and vibration, and improves performance, especially at high RPM. Overall, it contributes to better engine stability and drivability, making it particularly beneficial in high-performance or racing scenarios.
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For Miatas, there are a range of upgraded trigger wheels available, most with 35 or 34 teeth referred to as a 36-1T or 36-2T trigger wheel. The triggers nominally have 36 teeth and either one or two teeth are removed so the crank position sensor will receive a signal when the crank has completed a full rotation.
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The trigger wheel recommended for BMM ECUs is the 1999-2001 Mazda Protege 36-1 Trigger Wheel (part # ZM0111408). This trigger wheel is compatible with the stock crankshaft pulley and a Fluiddampr crankshaft pulley. If using an ATI damper, you must purchase a compatible trigger wheel.
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## Installation
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Before completing this installation it is recommended to have the car running on a BMM ECU with the stock trigger wheel. This way, only a few parameters in the tune need to be changed to get the car working with this part.
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### Disconnect the Battery
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Ensure the engine is off and disconnect the battery for safety.
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### Remove Engine Belts
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Remove the engine belts obstructing access to the crankshaft pulley. Typically, there are two belts: the accessory belt which drives the power steering and A/C and the alternator belt which also drives the water pump. The belt tensioners are respectively located on the power steering pump (top right on the engine from the front) and the alternater (bottom left). With the belts removed, you should have clear access to the crankshaft pulley.
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### Rotate Engine to Top Dead Center (TDC)
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Using a 21mm socket on the bolt in the centre of the crank pully, rotate the engine clockwise until the marks on the crank pulley line up with the timing marks on the timing belt cover.
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### Remove the Crankshaft Pulley
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Remove the crankshaft pulley by undoing the four 10mm bolts on the front. The large centre bolt doesn't need to be removed if using the stock or a Fluiddampr pulley. An ATI damper will require removal of the cranshaft bolt to install so consult their installation manual if required. Behind the pulley should be the OEM trigger wheel. Go ahead and remove it, put it in the bin or use it as a beer coaster.
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### Install the New Trigger Wheel
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The new trigger wheel can go on to the engine in two orientations, correctly and backwards. To radially allign the trigger wheel, there is a dowel pin on the crank which slots into a hole in the trigger wheel. At TDC, the dowel pin should be vertical or at the 12 o'clock position. The correct orientation is to put the trigger wheel on, as per the diagrams below, with the centre recessed part of the trigger pointing towards the crank, the white dot facing outwards and the missing tooth at approximately the 7 o'clock position when the engine is at TDC and the dowel pin is vertical. The trigger wheel is the wrong way around if the teeth are further fowards of the engine than the centre reccess, the white dot is facing towards the engine, or the missing tooth is at the 5 o'clock position at engine TDC.
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If installing an ATI damper and trigger wheel or a Fluiddampr, consult the manual as the installation has several additional steps which include bolting the trigger wheel to the aftermarket crankshaft pulley damper. In the case of a Fluiddampr, the orientation of the Mazda 323 trigger wheel will be identical to installaton onto a stock pulley.
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### Re-Install Crank Pulley and Adjust Crank Sensor
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Re-install the crank pulley and the four 10mm bolts (109-151 inch/lbs 13-17 Nm). Check the clearance betweek the crank sensor and the tip of a tooth on the timing wheel, there should be a 0.5-1.5 mm or 0.020-0.059 inch gap between the tooth and the sensor. If you later come up with trigger errors, this gap may need to be reduced. To reduce the gap, loosen the 10mm bolt holding the crank sensor and wiggle it to the desired position.
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### Re-Install Belts and Connect Battery
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Re-install the accessory and alternator belts checking they are suitably tight. Now connect the battery back to the car. The mechanical installation is now complete and it's time to boot up the computer.
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## TunerStudio Settings
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In the "Trigger" menu under the Base Engine tab, change the trigger type to 36/1 and the trigger angle advance to 75 degrees.
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If using a 36-2 trigger wheel instead, the first setting would be 36/2 and the advance will likely be different so check with the manufacutrer. In the case of a 36-2T trigger wheel for an ATI damper, the advance angle should be around 148 degrees.
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These settings will likely get the car started with the Mazda 323 timing wheel however the trigger angle advance may need to be iterated to perfectly match the timing on your car. To check or set the base timing, set the timing to fixed in TunerStudio and use a timing light on the crank to measure the timing. If the timing is not 10 degrees BTDC, iterate the trigger angle advance in TS until it is spot on. This is covered in "Set Base Timing" within the Miata Quick Start Guide.
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Now after ensuring your timing is reverted back to dynamic in TS, the installation should now be complete!
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# Miata Coil On Plug Conversion
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Converting your Miata to run a coil on plug (COP) ignition setup is a great engine upgrade for those with forced induction or high-performance engines. Offering a stronger spark and improved reliability, coil-on-plug technology outperforms the coil packs of the 1990s and early 2000s Miatas. It also eliminates the need for ignition wire replacements and reduces electrical interference, making it a more robust and appealing option in automotive applications.
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This guide will discuss the steps to convert your stock NA or NB Miata ignition system to COP.
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## Parts Required
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### Ignition Coils and Connectors
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Toyota and Audi/VW ignition coils are the most common. For Toyota coils, ones off a 1ZZ engine will work as well as many other variants. Some part numbers for Toyota coils are: 90080-19015, 90919-02239, 90080-19023, 90919-02234. The part number for the coil connector is: 90980-11885.
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For Audi coils, the ones used are referred to as R8 coils as they are used on the Audi R8 (as well as most other Audi's and some VWs). The most common part number is: 06E905115G however there are also many variants that will work depending which brand of "R8 coil" you want and how much you want to spend. The part number for the R8 coil connector is: 1J0973724.
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Both of these ignition coils work and both have their distinct advantages. The R8 coils securely clip onto the spark plugs however they protrude further from the spark plug holes than stock so usually require a form of spacer to keep them from wiggling around. The Toyota ones sit flusher however they also require a bracket for their mounting bolt to secure them in place. For the NA6 and earlier NA8 cars, the tachometer takes a signal from the ignition coils, only the Toyota coils have this pin. You can run R8 coils on these cars however your tachometer will not work unless you wire it directly to the ECU.
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### Car Wiring Harness Connectors
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If you wish to solder directly to the harness, you can ignore this however those wishing for a more elegant solution prefer to clip their COP harness onto the existing vehicle harness.
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For a 1.6L, this is more difficult and it is either recommended to buy a spare igniter to take apart or simply wire directly into the harness.
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For the other NA and NB Miatas utilizing a coil pack on the back of the valve cover, a compatible connector part number is: 6098-0144.
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### Other Components
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- 10,000uF capacitor to be installed between the 12V and GND which helps to filter electrical noise however this is not strictly necessary.
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- 18-22 AWG wire to help reduce the internal resistance and carry the power to drive the coils.
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- Wiring harness or electrical tape to wrap over the harness
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- Crimping tool
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- Soldering equipment
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- Heat shrink
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- Wire strippers
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- Wiring
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- The wiring diagrams for each model NA/NB is shown below.
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#### NA6 (1.6L)
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#### NA8 94-95 (1.8L)
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#### NA8 95+ /NB1 (1.8L)
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## Toyota Coil Pinout
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From left to right on the coil is the ground, ECU signal, tachometer signal, and 12V. For later NA8 and NB1 Miatas, the tachometer signal does not need to be wired up.
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## R8 Coil Pinout
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||||
|
||||
From left to right on the coil is the ground, ECU signal, ground, and 12V. The two grounds can be connected together. Note that the R8 coils have no tachometer signal meaning that on NA6 and early NA8 cars, the tachometer will need to get its signal from the ECU. Later NA8s and NB1s do not have this issue.
|
||||
|
||||
## COP Harness
|
||||
|
||||
To make the neatest harness, cut the wires to length with the coils installed in the car in their desired orientations. Leave a small amount of excess so there is no tension on the wiring harness and room in case a wire needs to be re-stripped. Make sure to cover each exposed solder joint with electrical tape or heat shrink then go over the entire harness with tape to protect it. It is recommended to check your harness wiring several times for shorts or mistakes before powering on the car.
|
||||
|
||||
## Coil Mounts
|
||||
|
||||
For both coils, there are a range of third-party suppliers selling mounting brackets. If you wish to DIY a mount, they can be made relatively inexpensively using aluminum or 3D printed spacers (ABS or other high temperature plastics are recommended).
|
||||
|
||||
## ECU Dwell Time Setup
|
||||
|
||||
The dwell times need to be modified in TunerStudio before starting the car with the new COPs. Recommended safe dwell settings are shown below for both Toyota and R8 COPs. Note that dwell times can vary significantly between different ignition coils and it is recommended to do some additional research on your specific coil. The longer the dwell time, the longer the coil charges for and the stronger the spark. Too little dwell will result in a weak spark and too much dwell can draw an excessive amount of current, possibly melting the coil.
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|
|||
# Miata VVT Setup and Tuning
|
||||
|
||||
Tuning the NB2 BP-Z3/BP-VE VVT motor can be a daunting task. This guide will detail the process for configuring and tuning the VVT for an NB2 VVT motor using a BMM ECU.
|
||||
|
||||
## Required Equipment
|
||||
|
||||
Vehicle running an NB2 VVT motor
|
||||
Access to a dyno or a safe location to tune the vehicle using Virtual Dyno. An actual dyno is preferable to virtual dyno due to the accuracy of readings and ability to safely vary the operating point of the engine.
|
||||
Laptop with TunerStudio, MegaLog Viewer and optionally Virtual Dyno installed.
|
||||
Initial TunerStudio Configuration
|
||||
Open TunerStudio and open the "VVT Configuration and PID" menu under the advanced tab. Going down the settings in this menu first is the activation delay. This is the initial delay when the car is started before the VVT is enabled. A setting of 1000-5000ms (1-5s) should be suitable here to give the engine enough time to build oil pressure before enabling the VVT.
|
||||
|
||||
The "Do not control below RPM" setting or activation RPM disables VVT until the engine RPM exceeds this value. Ideally set it about at 100-200 RPM or so above your idle RPM to keep it disabled during idle. This will simplify the idle tuning as the engine torque from the VVT changing can lead to a fluctuating idle.
|
||||
|
||||
For the VVT solenoid banks, an NB2 motor only has VVT on the intake so select the pin labelled as "VVT" for the "VVT solenoid bank 1 intake" setting.
|
||||
|
||||
On the right side of the menu are the PID control options. If you are new to PID tuning, plenty of guides exist detailing how it works. This video by RCModelReviews details how PIDs work on a basic level.
|
||||
|
||||
Pictured below are some reasonable default settings however it is still recommended to configure the settings yourself as settings can vary from car to car.
|
||||
|
||||
## VVT Offset Setting
|
||||
|
||||
Before configuring the VVT PID, the basic VVT angle offset needs to be configured. This is to calibrate what the ECU thinks is 0 degrees VVT angle to the actual VVT angle on the car, similar to setting the base timing. This is different to the offset in the PID control menu. Open the "Trigger" menu under the "Base Engine" tab and locate the "VVT offset bank 1 intake(value)" setting. In the engine bay, unplug the VVT solenoid highlighted in the image below:
|
||||
|
||||
Right click one of the gauges on the background of TunerStudio and under VVT, change it to "VVT bank 1 intake vvtPositionB1IGauge". This will show a live reading of the detected VVT position on the car.
|
||||
|
||||
Start the car with the solenoid unplugged and read the VVT position on the gauge. Change the "VVT offset bank 1 intake(value)" setting until the VVT position reads 0. The VVT angle is now calibrated and you can shut off the car and plug the solenoid back in. Your offset should be similar to that shown below:
|
||||
|
||||
## PID Tuning VVT Settings
|
||||
|
||||
Under the PID settings the offset is the VVT solenoid duty cycle offset. Basically, the solenoid will only activate if it is pulsed above a threshold duty cycle and the PID controller needs to know what duty cycle this occurs. PID tuning can be a tedious process and it is recommended to outsource it to a professional if you are not confident.
|
||||
|
||||
To tune the offset, open the "VVT Closed Loop Target" table and set every cell to a constant value such as 10 degrees. Set the P gain to 1. Right click one of the gauges on the background of TS and under VVT, change it to "VVT bank 1 intake - vvtPositionB1IGauge". This will show a live reading of the detected VVT position on the car.
|
||||
|
||||
Start with an offset value of e.g. 10. Start the car and hold the engine RPM at a constant value above the threshold RPM and observe the VVT position gauge. If the gauge does not change, increase the offset by 5-10 and repeat until you find the minimum offset required for the gauge to change VVT position. Note that the actual VVT position won't be correct yet as the PID controller still needs to be set up. A value in the range of 30-40 is expected.
|
||||
|
||||
Next is the PID tuning. This step can take a while and is important to do thoroughly to ensure that the VVT can reach its target angles quickly and without overshooting significantly. The PID tuning is best done on a dyno or with a mate to drive the car whilst you tune it. Alternatively you can take a driving datalog, analyse it in MegaLogViewer, revise the PID settings and take another driving log. This method would be very time consuming and the first two are recommended.
|
||||
|
||||
To tune the P, I, and D settings you can either start from scratch or work from other users values to refine them. Below are some PID values you can work from if you wish. The process of tuning the PIDs is to put various angle targets in the VVT intake target table at different engine loads and RPM and to move the engine around between them. As the VVT target changes, the PID loop will activate to attempt to reach the new target. By watching the response of how quickly and with how much overshoot the controller reaches the target, the PID controller can be tuned.
|
||||
|
||||
An example on the dyno this might look like having all VVT target cells below 1500 RPM at 0 and above that at 20 degrees. In the "diagnostics and high speed loggers" tab you can set one graph to be the VVT position and the other as the VVT target as shown below:
|
||||
|
||||
Next, rev and hold the engine up to e.g. 2000 RPM and watch how quickly the VVT position rises to match the VVT target. If the position overshoots, decrease P or increase D, vice versa if it undershoots. If the position slowly drifts from 20 degrees, you would increase the I gain. The PID settings would be varied until the VVT position quickly rises or falls to and VVT target changes without much over or undershoot. To properly optimise the PID tune, it is recommended to repeat a similar tuning process with lots of VVT angles.
|
||||
|
||||
Once the VVT is PID tuned, the VVT target table can be tuned.
|
||||
|
||||
## VVT Target Angle Tuning
|
||||
|
||||
Tuning the VVT angle is where the power gains are made. At this point the VVT should be fully set up and PID tuned to quickly reach the target position. If you cannot be bothered tuning the VVT angle, copying another users settings may yield decent results provided they have done the proper tuning however there will always be slight variances from car to car. A reasonable target table example is shown below:
|
||||
|
||||
The target angle is tuned in two sections, ramp run tuning and steady state tuning. Ramp runs are used to tune the VVT at maximum throttle and steady state tuning is used to tune the angles for partial throttle applications when the engine isn't fully loaded. This tuning is best done on a dyno for the best accuracy.
|
||||
|
||||
To tune the ramp run, set the entire VVT target table to 0 and perform a run. Save this run and do another, this time incrementing the whole VVT target table angle by 5-10 degrees depending how many dyno pulls you want to do. Repeat this process until the maximum VVT angle of 44 degrees is reached. Now load up all of the dyno runs and overlay them on top of each other. There will be points across these graphs where the torque from one VVT angle rises above the others. Power can be used as well but it is easier to do the tuning using the torque plots. For a given RPM range, take the VVT angle with the highest torque and put that into the maximum load section of the VVT target table. Repeat this for every RPM range where a different VVT angle yields a higher engine torque until the maximum load row of the table is populated. An example ramp run dyno graph is shown below where there are several "dyno runs" at different VVT angles. The yellow lines indicate the crossover points where a certain VVT angle has the most torque. Simply set the highest torque producing VVT angle in the chart for a given RPM range to that in the target table.
|
||||
|
||||
If you have some way of maintaining a constant throttle position below 100% such as a chock under the pedal (on the dyno only!!!) or limiting the maximum throttle body travel, ramp runs can be used to efficiently populate the whole VVT table for conditions where the engine isn't fully loaded.
|
||||
|
||||
To steady state tune on a dyno, the dyno will hold the engine at a specific RPM and load so you can vary the VVT angle in real time to see which angle has the highest torque. You then move to another cell and repeat this to tune the lower engine load sections of the VVT target table. To save time, it is possible go along a row tuning every second cell then interpolating between them. The downsides to steady state tuning is the higher load and RPM will quickly heat up the engine so it is crucial to monitor the temperature. This method also takes quite a lot of time but will yield precise results as the angle can be varied in small increments as the torque is measured instantaneously.
|
||||
|
||||
Road tuning with steady state is not possible as there is no way to measure the torque of the engine as the car sits at a specific load and RPM.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,25 @@
|
|||
# NA6 Miata ECU Grounding
|
||||
|
||||
When installing a standalone ECU on an NA6, there is one step that is often overlooked and not well-documented. This step is to ensure that the car sensors are grounded to the ECU instead of the chassis.
|
||||
|
||||
Grounding sensors directly to the ECU rather than the chassis provides numerous benefits including reduced electrical noise, improved signal integrity, and better sensor performance. Eliminating factory ECU ground connections to the chassis becomes particularly important when swapping to a standalone ECU with additional sensors, as it ensures a centralized grounding system and avoids potential conflicts in sensor readings.
|
||||
|
||||
## Instructions
|
||||
|
||||
There is a stud coming off the intake manifold below the fuel rail, holding a P clamp for the wire harness with a connector to the Cam Angle Sensor. This is where a pair of grounds meet on a round ring terminal: one being a chassis ground (black), the other being an ECU ground (black and green). The black and green wire must be cut from this ring terminal and isolated. The location of this wire is shown in the images below:
|
||||
|
||||
Note: If your car's ground is different due to modifications, follow the harness from the passenger side firewall to the cam angle sensor, and the pair of grounds may have been relocated to another location. See the NA6 wiring diagram at the end of this guide for further information.
|
||||
|
||||
## Benefits
|
||||
|
||||
Sensor grounds play a critical role in ensuring accurate readings and proper functionality of various vehicle sensors. It is preferable to have sensor grounds connected to the ECU rather than the chassis. Eliminating a factory ECU ground connected to the chassis is important for several reasons:
|
||||
|
||||
- Noise and Interference Reduction: Grounding sensors directly to the ECU helps minimize electrical noise and interference that can affect sensor signals. The ECU acts as a central point for grounding, providing a cleaner and more stable electrical reference for sensor operation.
|
||||
- Signal Integrity: Grounding sensors to the ECU ensures consistent and reliable signal integrity. By eliminating ground loops and potential differences between sensor grounds and the ECU ground, accuracy and precision in sensor readings are maintained, leading to more reliable engine management and diagnostics.
|
||||
- Improved Sensor Performance: Sensors rely on stable ground connections to function optimally. By grounding sensors to the ECU, they benefit from a more controlled electrical environment, resulting in improved sensor performance, responsiveness, and accuracy.
|
||||
- Preventing Ground Offset Issues: When sensors are grounded to the chassis, there can be voltage potential differences between the sensor ground and the ECU ground. This can lead to ground offset issues, where sensor readings are skewed or erratic due to voltage differentials. By grounding sensors directly to the ECU, these issues are minimized or eliminated.
|
||||
Maintaining Factory ECU Grounding: Factory ECU ground connections to the chassis should be eliminated if aftermarket modifications are made to the vehicle's electrical system. This ensures that sensor grounds are centralized and routed through the ECU, maintaining a consistent electrical reference and preventing potential conflicts or inconsistencies in sensor readings.
|
||||
|
||||
## NA6 Wiring
|
||||
|
||||
If you are having difficulties tracing the correct wires to isolate, the wiring diagram below highlights the black and green ground wire and where it connects to on the car. By cutting the black and green wire from the engine block, you can see that the crank angle sensor is only wired to the ground on the ECU.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
{
|
||||
"label": "Vehicle Specific",
|
||||
"link": {
|
||||
"type": "generated-index",
|
||||
"description": "Vehicle Specific"
|
||||
}
|
||||
}
|
||||
Loading…
Reference in New Issue