improve "Quick start" howto (#413)

* fix typos

* improve content

* correct typo

* improve content links

* add missing acronym

.vscode/settings.json

@@ -65,6 +65,7 @@
         "Trionic",
         "tunerstudio",
         "tyco",
+        "UART",
         "Vitara",
         "Vref",
         "Xara",

First-Engine-Start.md

@@ -1,3 +1,4 @@
 # First Engine Start
 
+Please see here: [HOWTO Start an Engine](HOWTO-Start-An-Engine)
 Please see here: [HOWTO Get Running](HOWTO-Get-Running)

HOWTO-Get-Running.md

@@ -57,7 +57,7 @@ Place some place that is away from hot items like the exhaust. Mount on a piece
 
 * For Frankenso it can typically use a typical automotive blade style fuse. From page 9 of the Frankenso schematic it suggests to use a 1.5A fuse. However that was for the one mounted on the PCB, which generally has a small wire installed. The below 2A would work for an external fuse.
 
-[Littelfuse Mini Datasheet](http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/fuses/passenger-car-and-commercial-vehicle/blade-fuses/littelfuse_mini_datasheet.pdf)
+[Littelfuse Mini Data sheet](http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/fuses/passenger-car-and-commercial-vehicle/blade-fuses/littelfuse_mini_datasheet.pdf)
 
 * Check in the forums for additional information. Often members can identify bumps in the road before you hit them. Forum members can also make suggestions that could make things go smoothly.
 
@@ -75,7 +75,7 @@ Place some place that is away from hot items like the exhaust. Mount on a piece
 ![Frankenstein wired with connector breakout](Images/Aspire_20140306_state.jpg)
 ![Frankenstein wired in enclosure](Images/P1050839_zpsfdbdbd97.jpg)
 * It will likely be helpful to get a partial harness from a junk yard, and switch to rusEFI circuit-by-circuit using a [breakout module.](Breakout-Module)
-* Use junk hard harness to make extension harness. Use the junk yard ECU connector to break out the wire harness to the breakout board. Then from the far side of the breakout board, install the junk yard harness connector. Then connect the original ECU. This should allow you to start and run then engine as normal.
+* Use junk yard harness to make extension harness. Use the junk yard ECU connector to break out the wire harness to the breakout board. Then from the far side of the breakout board, install the junk yard harness connector. Then connect the original ECU. This should allow you to start and run then engine as normal.
 
 #### Prepare engine wiring
 
@@ -138,7 +138,7 @@ To adjust running timing for your first run, use `set_whole_timing_map XXX` comm
 
 To adjust running fuel for your first run, use `set_whole_fuel_map XXX` command, where XXX is number of total fuel squirt duration in milliseconds. This value is usually between 3 and 12. See also [Console Fuel Commands](Dev-Console-Commands#fuel-control)
 
-One plain MAF workk next step is running with proper MAP sensor calibration & flow rate setting.
+Once plain MAF works next step is running with proper MAP sensor calibration & flow rate setting.
 
 ### next steps & troubleshooting
 

HOWTO-Start-An-Engine.md

@@ -1,15 +1,23 @@
 # Performing A First Start On A New rusEFI install
 
-    **This page is a work in progress and will be completed in the coming months, please bear with us**
+    **This page is a work in progress and will be completed as time allows, please bear with us**
 
 One of the toughest aspects of any new ECU install is the first start of a new engine. It is an issue a lot of users find so hopefully this comprehensive first start guide will help but clarifying the purpose of the settings and providing some best practice procedures.  
 
 Before you can even try to start the engine you have to get some of the basics right:
 
-- You have to have the engine cranking well with the starter, if the engine cranks lazily then fix that first. You need a good strong consistent cranking speed.
+## sensor requirements
+
 - You must have known, good sensors with a correct calibration. Without this you have no hope of getting things to work in the long run so be sure you have a correct working MAP/MAF, CLT, IAT, TPS and Fuel pressure sensor if you have it.  
-- You must be sure you have fuel pressure, without a working fuel pump and functional fuel pressure regulator you are not going to get a good start up, if the engine is a dead head fuel line or has a fuel pressure sensor then the same applies and I will address that in the correct section as they are special cases.  
+
+## cranking requirements
+
+- You have to have the engine cranking well with the starter, if the engine cranks lazily then fix that first. You need a good strong consistent cranking speed.
 - Idle air: check that your throttle is correctly adjusted with its idle stop, your IAC works or your ETB config is correct for idling the engine.  
+
+## ignition and fuel & injection system requirements
+
+- You must be sure you have fuel pressure, without a working fuel pump and functional fuel pressure regulator you are not going to get a good start up, if the engine is a dead head fuel line or has a fuel pressure sensor then the same applies and I will address that in the correct section as they are special cases.  
 - Injectors and ignition coils: Again you need to be sure you have the correct information on your injectors and coils, without this you wont be able to set the dead times, flow rate or dwell correctly.  
 - Injectors and ignition coils need to be bench tested to check that each one is wired and set to the correct ECU channel. This is critical, incorrect wiring or channel setting is like having the HT leads in the wrong order. You will fuel and spark the wrong cylinders.  
 - Information on your crank trigger wheel is really really important, knowing the number of teeth on the trigger wheel and where the TDC offset is positioned is half the battle, if these are unknown then you will have to get that information before you can start up.  
@@ -36,7 +44,7 @@ See also [Trigger](Trigger)
 
 See also [Trigger Hardware](Trigger-Hardware)
 
-## Confirm TDC position
+## Confirm Top Dead Center (TDC) position
 
 Assuming you have the hardware ready to spark we now need to find your TDC position - we know trigger shape but we do not know the trigger wheel position in relation to TDC#1 (Top Dead Center, cylinder #1).
 
@@ -98,7 +106,7 @@ List basic tests here, like is LED on, are jumpers installed correctly if applic
 
 ### Test equipment tests
 
-List tests that can be done with O-Scopes, multimeters, scan tools, and other such options for diagnosing a problem.
+(:ToDo) List tests that can be done with O-Scopes, multimeters, scan tools, and other such options for diagnosing a problem.
 
 ### Get help from a local
 
@@ -106,4 +114,4 @@ We provide much more info than most OEM options. If you are stuck, you may be ab
 
 ### On board hardware diagnostics
 
-Don't have a scope, no problem, the IO board has basic scope built inside. You can connect pin blah to nearly any point on the board and you can measure a variety of points synchronized with the logging software.
+Don't have a scope, no problem, the IO board has basic scope built inside. You can connect pin (:ToDo) to nearly any point on the board and you can measure a variety of points synchronized with the logging software.

HOWTO-quick-start.md

@@ -32,7 +32,7 @@ If you have a Frankenso, Frankenstein, or are just messing with a Discovery, you
 
 This guide is written for the firmware released August 6th 2020. The further away from this date your FW is, the less agreement you will have in specific locations of items in TunerStudio and terms used etc. HOWEVER, the basic principles should still apply.
 
-1. [Download the rusEFI Bundle](Download) to get your rusefiXXX.ini file and serial port drivers.
+1. [Download the rusEFI Bundle](Download) to get your rusefiXXX.ini (:ToDo) file and serial port drivers.
 
 2. Install [TunerStudio](http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/downloads) and [MegaLog Viewer](https://www.efianalytics.com/MegaLogViewer/download/) (the payed versions are highly recommended).
 
@@ -42,15 +42,12 @@ This guide is written for the firmware released August 6th 2020. The further awa
 
 4. Connect TunerStudio to your ECU. You will need a USB cable to establish communication between your tuning laptop and the rusEFI unit. There will typically be only one micro-USB port on a PnP unit.
 
-   *Your laptop should give you an audible notification when you plug in the ECU with the ignition turned on. That means that it "sees" a new device connected to a USB port.
+   **Your laptop should give you an audible notification when you plug in the ECU with the ignition turned on. That means that it "sees" a new device connected to a USB port.**
 
-   If you're running Linux, you might have [some issues with ModemManager](Linux-Connectivity).
+5. In TunerStudio apply correct "Communication Settings" [for detailed instructions see here.](Tunerstudio-Connectivity.md)
+   **Note: If your computer is running Linux, you might have to [fix issues with ModemManager](Linux-Connectivity).**
 
-5. Under "Communications" -> "Communication Settings" [IMAGE] you should select the correct COM port for your rusEFI. You will usually see only two COM ports. Chances are, the one with the higher number is the rusEFI COM-port. For most cases, the selected Baud rate does not matter. If you can't establish communication, try baud rate 38,400 | 57,600 or 115,200. If that doesn't work, you may need to try a different COM port.
-
-6. After selecting the COM-port (and baud rate), click on "Test Port". This should result in a "successful!" message. If you get a failed message, you need to adjust your settings. After a successful test of the port click "Accept".
-
-7. With this your TunerStudio screen should come to life! You should see sensor inputs and some output values like ignition timing and dwell. Of course the values displayed miught not make a lot of sense, since your ECU is lacking a car, but at least you can see that TunerStudio and your computer are communicating.
+6. With this your TunerStudio screen should come to life! You should see sensor inputs and some output values like ignition timing and dwell. Of course the values displayed might not make a lot of sense, since your ECU is lacking a car, but at least you can see that TunerStudio and your computer are communicating.
 
 ## Getting your car running
 
@@ -60,7 +57,7 @@ Run your car on your stock ECU to warm it up. This may make it easier to start,
 
 ### Step 2
 
-Unplug your stock ECU and plug in your rusEFI PnP. You probably don't want to close the lid just yet, so you can observe blinky lights etc.
+Unplug your stock ECU and plug in your rusEFI PnP. You probably don't want to close the lid just yet, so you can observe blinking lights etc.
 
 ### Step 3
 
@@ -69,17 +66,32 @@ Turn on the ignition. DO NOT START THE CAR
 ### Step 4
 
 Connect TunerStudio to your ECU.
-With this your TunerStudio screen should come to life! You should see sensor inputs and some output values like ignition timing and dwell. If things are set up properly, you should see reasonable values for [Coolant temperature], [Air Intake temperature], [Battery Voltage], [Manifold Air Pressure] (should be near 100kpa if you're using a MAP snesor) and even your [throttle pedal position]. The values may show some jitters. Your rpms should be 0. Push your throttle pedal and see if you get a response. Congratulations- your rusEFI can "see" your car.
+Assuming the pre-requisites for sensors as [outlined here](HOWTO-Start-An-Engine#sensor-requirements) are met,
+your TunerStudio screen should come to life!
+
+You should see sensor inputs and some output values like ignition timing and dwell.
+
+If things are set up properly, you should see reasonable values for:
+
+* Coolant temperature (CLT)
+* Intake Air temperature (IAT)
+* Battery Voltage (BV)
+* Manifold Air Pressure (MAP/MAF) (should be near 100kpa if you're using a MAP sensor)
+* Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
+
+ The values may show some jitters. RPMs should be 0. Push your throttle pedal and see if you get a response. Congratulations- your rusEFI can "see" your car.
 
 ### Step 5
 
-Calibrate your throttle pedal. Go to "Tools" -> "Calibrate TPS". Don't touch the throttle and click on "Get Current" next to "Closed Throttle ADC count". Now step on the gas (full-throttle/pedal fully depressed) And do the same for no-throttle (pedal fully released). Burn to ECU.
+Calibrate your throttle pedal. Go to "Tools" -> "Calibrate TPS". Don't touch the throttle and click on "Get Current" next to "Closed Throttle ADC count". Now step on the throttle pedal (full-throttle/pedal fully depressed) **and** do the same for no-throttle (pedal fully released).
+
+**Save (Burn) calibration to ECU.**
 
 ### Step 6
 
 Test your outputs. Under "Controller" -> "Bench Test & Commands" you can see a lot of options for outputs you can test. Let's focus on the basic ones for now. Spark and Fuel. First, if your car's fuel pump is controlled by the ECU, test "Fuel Pump". You should hear the fuel pump running.
 
-Then move on to spark. Here it depends on how your car is set up. If you have a 4-cylinder with wasted spark (which is likely the majority of users), you will likely be using "Spark #1" and "Spark #3". When you click the test button, you should hear the corresponding ignition coil firing. If you can't hear the spark, you may want to pull a spark plug (or use a spare) and hook it up to the spark plug connector and ground it. Test again and you should see a spark arcing. Dont shock yourself.
+Then move on to spark. Here it depends on how your car is set up. If you have a 4-cylinder with wasted spark (which is likely the majority of users), you will likely be using "Spark #1" and "Spark #3". When you click the test button, you should hear the corresponding ignition coil firing. If you can't hear the spark, you may want to pull a spark plug (or use a spare) and hook it up to the spark plug connector and ground it. Test again and you should see a spark arcing. Don't shock yourself.
 
 Now it's time to test your injectors. Again, this depends on your vehicle. Most cars will at least have two banks of injectors. So you should definitely hear injectors firing when you're testing "Injector #1" and "Injector #2". If you have full-sequential fuel, you should try as many injectors as your engine has cylinders. *Fuel is flammable. Have a fire extinguisher near by just in case.
 
@@ -89,7 +101,7 @@ Close the test window. We're getting close to starting the car.
 
 ### Step 7
 
-Turn the ignition off and unplug the USB cable. This removes power to the unit- (just to make sure we're in a defined state). Then reconnect the USB cable, turn on the ignition, wait for TunerStudio to come to life and then crank the engine. You should see the rpms jump to a positive value (typical would be anywhere between 200 and 600rpm) and your engine should start. It may take a few cranks for rpms to register. If you see rpms in Tunerstudio, but the engine isn't starting, keep at it. It may take quite a bit longer than the stock ECU. You are probably used to cranking taking approx. 2s or so. rusEFI takes about 2s of cranking before it can identify the position of the crankshaft. And then it will fire the injectors and ignition coils. It may take it quite a while (>10s which seems like an eternity when cranking) for the engine to catch. Don't give up. There may be coughs and sputters. Play with the throttle a little. It will start eventually. Post your findings to the [forum](https://rusefi.com/forum/) and we can help!
+Turn the ignition off and unplug the USB cable. This removes power to the unit- (just to make sure we're in a defined state). Then reconnect the USB cable, turn on the ignition, wait for TunerStudio to come to life and then crank the engine. You should see the RPMs jump to a positive value (typical would be anywhere between 200 and 600rpm) and your engine should start. It may take a few cranks for RPMs to register. If you see RPMs in Tunerstudio, but the engine isn't starting, keep at it. It may take quite a bit longer than the stock ECU. You are probably used to cranking taking approx. 2s or so. **rusEFI takes about 2s of cranking before it can identify the position of the crankshaft. And then it will fire the injectors and ignition coils.** It may take it quite a while (>10s which seems like an eternity when cranking) for the engine to catch. Don't give up. There may be coughs and sputters. Play with the throttle a little. It will start eventually. Post your findings to the [forum](https://rusefi.com/forum/) and we can help!
 
 And we're done with the initial startup. Congratulations- you have your car running on your standalone aftermarket ECU! Now the fun really begins :)
 
@@ -105,7 +117,7 @@ A: The USB Cable needs to be shielded all the way to the connector. Don't connec
 
 Q: Do I need to compile source code myself?
 
-A: Nope, not at all. Prebuilt bundles are availabile on the [Download Page](Download).
+A: Nope, not at all. Prebuilt bundles are available on the [Download Page](Download).
 
 Q: Low side, high side... Too complicated! Where do I hook my coils?!
 

Tunerstudio-Connectivity.md

@@ -1,19 +1,25 @@
 # TunerStudio Connectivity
 
-## Communications
+## Communications Parameters
 
-## Parameters
-
-By default Tuner Studio connectivity is using pin PC10 for TX and PC11 RX, **baud rate 38400**. Do not forget about GND wire.
+### COM-port and baud rate
 
 ![Communication Settings](Images/communication_settings.png)
 
+Select the correct COM port for your rusEFI. You will usually see only two COM ports. Chances are, the one with the higher number is the rusEFI COM-port. For most cases, the selected Baud rate does not matter. 
+
+If you can't establish communication, try baud rate 38,400 | 57,600 or 115,200. If that doesn't work, you may need to try a different COM port.
+
+After selecting the COM-port (and baud rate), click on "Test Port". This should result in a "successful!" message. If you get a failed message, you need to adjust your settings. After a successful test of the port click "Accept".
+
 See also: [TunerStudio Console Commands](Dev-Console-Commands#tuner-studio)
 
-Please be sure to use current firmware version with current rusefi.ini project from [<http://rusefi.com/build_server/rusefi_firmware.zip> build_server]
-
 ## Troubleshooting Tuner Studio connectivity
 
+By default Tuner Studio connectivity is using pin PC10 for TX and PC11 RX. Do not forget about GND wire.
+
+Please be sure to use current firmware version with current rusefi.ini project from [build server](http://rusefi.com/build_server/rusefi_firmware.zip)
+
 First of all make sure that you have serial port drivers installed. STMicroelectronics Virtual for microUSB or USB serial for PC10/PC11
 
 ![Device Manager Ports](Images/device_manager_ports.png)
@@ -26,8 +32,12 @@ you are expected to see a response like this:
 
 ![Expected Response](Images/response.png)
 
-Q: I try to connect with Tuner Studio and it says "line:532:rusEfiVersion,20140822@4388 Ford
+Q: I try to connect with Tuner Studio and it says 
+
+```text
+line:532:rusEfiVersion,20140822@4388 Ford
 Aspire,outpin,c1@PC6,outpin,c2@PA5,ou"?
+```
 
 A: what you have is a piece of rusEFI own console text-based protocol, you need to connect TS to the other port.