A few HOWTO ports (#84)

* converting HOWTO quick start

* converting HOWTO quick start

* fixes, add image

* line between images

* fix path

* converting HOWTO Get Running

* switch to hyphen

* rename hyphen

* Converting Fuel Overview

* add cranking to fuel pages list

* added Fuel Injectors link

* switch to hyphen

Fuel/Fuel_Control/Fuel-Overview.md

@@ -2,31 +2,25 @@
 
 The Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) is controlled by how much fuel is delivered to the cylinder for combustion. There are many factors and many sensors that come into play when trying to determine how much O2 is in the cylinder. rusEFI collects this information and makes a guess about how much O2 is in the cyl, then rusEFI has to determine how much fuel is needed to get the expected AFR and deliver that fuel charge. Below is a graphic that shows some common differences in AFR for a particular Toyota engine. Other engines are similar to this, but may have a different peak power area, or peak efficiency area, etc. To know this information for your particular setup you would need to run it on a Dyno, and determine the exact AFR's.
 
-Airfuel.jpg  
-
-[//]: # "Add picture"
-
-Original graphic found here [1]
+![Airfuel](Airfuel.jpg)
 
 Most people who are installing tune-able ECU's like rusEFI are looking for more power at the track. However your fuel weight advantage is also commonly important. So it is common that an engine will be tuned for peak power when over a certain load, and peak economy when at a cruise load. OEM's are often concerned with minimal environmental impact, so they may tune to a different AFR. Once you have decided on what your AFR strategy is going to be, you'll have to tune rusEFI to deliver that strategy. As well you will probably use a wide band oxygen sensor to measure your AFR and ensure that you are meeting your desired AFR target.
 
 # Supported fuel control algorithms 
 rusEFI supports mono, individual/sequential and batched fuel injection using one of the following fuel control algorithms:
 
-1) MAF-based or MAP-based table fuel lookup with interpolation - these algorithms only use the raw sensor output and thus they do not account for ambient air temperature, this is only intended as a minimum viable hardware configuration and we would suggest using the AlphaN, Speed Density or MAF air charge methods instead. 
+1. MAF-based or MAP-based table fuel lookup with interpolation - these algorithms only use the raw sensor output and thus they do not account for ambient air temperature, this is only intended as a minimum viable hardware configuration and we would suggest using the AlphaN, Speed Density or MAF air charge methods instead. 
 
-2) TPS-based table fuel lookup with interpolation (Alpha-N)
+2. TPS-based table fuel lookup with interpolation (Alpha-N)
 
-3) MAP-based Speed Density model, with fuel auto-tune provided by a fully registered copy of TunerStudio
+3. MAP-based Speed Density model, with fuel auto-tune provided by a fully registered copy of TunerStudio
 
-4) MAF based air charge model that computed the air mass in the cylinder and thus the required fuel quantity from the direct measurement of the mass air flow. 
+4. MAF based air charge model that computed the air mass in the cylinder and thus the required fuel quantity from the direct measurement of the mass air flow. 
 
 Wideband Oxygen Sensor is pretty much a requirement for both manual and auto-tuning.
 
 
-T4dv3ed.png  
-
-[//]: # "Add picture"
+![General Settings](general.png) 
 
 Within each fuel calculation mode there is coolant temperature correction ("warm-up mode"), battery voltage correction and injector open time ("injector lag") correction.
 
@@ -34,11 +28,6 @@ Within each fuel calculation mode there is coolant temperature correction ("warm
 rusEFI could be used with MAF sensors sending out voltage (like Mazda Miata) or current (like Ford Aspire).
 
 
-NXe9uWH.png 
+![Table](table.png) 
  
-[//]: # "Add picture"
-
 (also some content at http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1124)
-
-[//]: # "I feel this page needs a lot of work" 
-[//]: # "OrchardPerformance" 

HOWTO-Get-Running.md

@@ -0,0 +1,76 @@
+# Summary
+
+So you either have hardware under way, or are considering getting rusEFI hardware. This manual is intended for those that are using purchased hardware. If you are not, don't worry, we also encourage DIY and like hearing back from those that have. We also encourage people to use the purchased boards as a starting point for a DIY effort, feel free to modify the board we'll likely make suggestions on how to make your effort better.
+
+# Hardware requirements
+
+## Plan the engine
+
+The engine will need wires that connect to various sensors and devices. You will need crimp tools, soldering tools, and certain electrical and mechanical skills. 
+
+We suggest that before you purchase hardware, that you create a plan with a schematic. Even if the schematic is on a napkin, I suggest you take picture of it with your phone or scan it in and get feedback from members in the forum. We can help steer you to a successful build. 
+
+### Start ordering components
+
+Once you have a plan, you can start making a bill of materials. You'll likely be purchasing harnesses, wires, connectors, and all sorts of things. You may have to do junk yard runs to get certain hard to obtain items, ect. If you have your rough schematic at arms length, it will really help you know what you need and when you'll need it. 
+
+### Assembling components
+
+We should offer some notes about crimps, how to verify a good crimp, things like that. 
+
+[Frankenso](Hardware_Frankenso)
+
+[Frankenstein](Hardware_Frankenstein)
+
+## Preparing your engine
+
+### Physically locating the controller
+
+Place some place that is away from hot items like the exhaust. Mount on a piece of steal that can function as a heat sink. Preferably in a dry well ventilated location, were the wires can be easily routed to and from.
+
+### Route the wires and harnesses
+
+* It is recommended you route your wires in two different groups, analog and digital/high power. This helps ensure good signals make it to and from the ECU.
+
+* Wire size and fusing go together. The fuse is used to protect the wire against electrical fire. So the wire you can use depends largely on the upstream fuse you select. High-Z injectors are going to draw about 1A, so you can technically get by with tiny stuff like 24AWG or 22AWG. However that is generally not very strong and is prone to breaking and failure. So you would be well advised to follow the NFPA79's suggestion to use a min of 18AWG, as smaller is easily mechanically damaged. In terms of electrical sizing this is very much over sized, which is only suggested to get more rugged mechanical properties. 
+
+* You should always reference the MFG's specifications for the wire you are using, as different insulation's have different properties. Some wire is rated for 30A in 18AWG wire, but that is some really special wire which is rated for such conditions. See this general suggestion for general fusing.
+  * 18AWG, no larger than a 15A fuse 
+  * 20AWG, no larger than a 10A fuse 
+  * 22AWG, no larger than a 7A fuse
+  * 24AWG, no larger than a 3A fuse 
+ Those fuse sizes are based on this table for chassis wiring. http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
+
+* When selecting a fuse, you can use the below guide to help. Generally you choose the fuse and wire based on what the load needs. If your load is 1A capable, you need wire and fusing that can provide at least 1A. However you don't want too large of a wire as it adds costs, or the wire size might be to large for certain connectors, etc. 
+
+http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/catalogs/littelfuse_fuseology.pdf
+
+* Take note there is a fatigue issue known as I2t (That's amps squared time) which is a common reason for failures after several cycles. 
+
+* If you want to properly select a fuse, you really need a scope with a current measurement probe, then choose the I2t with the suggested method in the PDF. If you do not have such a scope, make sure to have extra fuses on hand just in case it blows a fuse some time down the road. 
+
+* For Frankenso it can typically use a typical automotive blade style fuse. From page 9 of the Frankenso schematic it suggests to use a 1.5A fuse. However that was for the one mounted on the PCB, which generally has a small wire installed. The below 2A would work for an external fuse. 
+
+http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/fuses/passenger-car-and-commercial-vehicle/blade-fuses/littelfuse_mini_datasheet.pdf
+
+### Testing the wiring
+
+Once connected you should test the wires. Especially the power wires like coil wires and injector wires. A poor connection with a slight resistance like .1 ohms can cause an electrical fire, which I'm sure you do not want. Once everything is connected measure both the voltage drop and current from the ECU connector, or where ever is applicably appropriate. Using your voltage and current readings, calculate the ohms, if it's above about .1 ohms fix the issue. Take note that .1 ohms at 1A is about .1watt that that connection will have to dissipate. If you have a 12 cyl, and 12 .1 ohm connections, the connector will have to dissipate 1.2 watts. 
+
+## Diagnostics and trouble shooting of your engine
+
+### Basic tests
+
+List basic tests here, like is LED on, are jumpers installed correctly if applicable, find hot components and do basic visual checks for burn things and such.
+
+### Test equipment tests
+
+List tests that can be done with O-Scopes, multimeters, scan tools, and other such options for diagnosing a problem. 
+
+### Get help from a local
+
+We provide much more info than most OEM options. If you are stuck, you may be able to get help from a local mechanic or someone local. Try asking for help in the forums there may be a member or a club meeting that's near by. It's common you can find local people who are willing to help. 
+
+### On board hardware diagnostics
+
+Don't have a scope, no problem, the IO board has basic scope built inside. You can connect pin blah to nearly any point on the board and you can measure a variety of points synchronized with the logging software. 

HOWTO-quick-start.md

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+## What to do while you wait for your hardware:
+
+1. [Download the rusEFI bundle](Download) for your hardware. 
+
+2. Uncompress the bundle and launch the rusEFI console. Hit the "Install Drivers" button to install the Virtual Com Port and ST-Link drivers. If necessary the bundle will also help you install java run-time.
+
+![console](FAQ/images/rusEfi_console/rusEfi_console_start_screen.png)
+
+3. **IF you have a Frankenso or Frankenstein board with the FT232 Chip, Download and install [FTDI's usb VCP driver on your PC](http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm).** 
+
+4. Get friendly on the [rusEFI forums](https://rusefi.com/forum) Introduce yourself, start a build thread, and ask questions.
+
+5. [Install TunerStudio (version 3.0.24 or newer is needed)](http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/downloads)
+
+6. Start a new project, save to a folder that you specify, and choose the rusefi.ini file from the bundle.
+
+![project](FAQ/images/TunerStudio_new_project.png)
+
+## Once you get your hardware:
+
+
+1. Connect the stm32f4discovery ('brain board') to the IO board, place jumpers like XYZ, then connect to a PC with a mini-USB cable. Mini-USB cable is used to power and to program the brain board. See below procedure found [here](http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=210&start=23)
+
+2. Before loading rusEFI firmware - if you have one of the newer Rev D STM32 discovery boards - you need to update discovery's firmware. That's in the "Firmware" dialog of ST Link utility, as shown in this picture. 
+![STLink Firmware Update](Images/Stlink_firmware_update.png)
+
+![Discovery Upload Wire](Images/discovery_upload_wire.JPG)
+* To upload the binary image into the microcontroller you will need to download & install [http://www.st.com/st-web-ui/static/active/en/st_prod_software_internet/resource/technical/software/utility/stsw-link004.zip STM32 ST-LINK utility]. (this is both the utility and the driver) Once installed it will look like this.
+![STLink Utility](Images/st_link_utility.png)
+* You should click '''Target --> Program...''' , browse to the rusefi.bin you have downloaded and hit Start button like this
+![STLink Start](Images/st_link_start.png)
+* After you have programmed the chip, you should click '''Target --> Disconnect''' and hit the '''black button''' on the discovery board '''to reset''' the firmware. After you hit the reset button, you should expect all four LEDs to blink once and then you should see just the '''blue LED blinking'''. If all is good, proceed to the Dev Console below.
+
+## rusEfi Console
+
+http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Software:Console
+
+We have rusEfi console which is a handy development and debugging tool. The dev console is written in java and it talks to the ECU firmware. The console allows firmware monitoring and configuration. Here are some pictures of what it looks like when it operating correctly. 
+
+![Java Console](Images/java_console_1.png)
+![Java Console](Images/java_console_2.png)
+
+
+To get the console working follow the below procedure, which assumes you have loaded the rusEFI firmware. 
+
+* Either power externally, or connect the "programming" USB cable as shown below. This will provide power to the Discovery board.
+* Connect the micro USB cable, see "console" cable shown below. When you do this for the first time, on a Windows PC, you will be prompted for drivers. You should download & install the drivers from here http://www.st.com/web/en/catalog/tools/PF257938. #: http://rusefi.com/wiki/images/thumb/0/06/RusEFI_STM.jpg/800px-RusEFI_STM.jpg
+* When the driver is installed & the board is connected via the micro USB cable, you can verify serial connectivity by 
+  * '''Windows''' - opening your Device Manager - we are expecting to see a Virtual COM Port 
+    * http://rusefi.com/images/forum_posts/device_manager.png
+  * '''Linux''' 
+    * ''Ubuntu (11.10)'' - plug in the "console" USB cable, then check the message log with this command.
+      ```
+      $ dmesg
+      ...
+      [10572.620088] usb 5-1: new full speed USB device number 5 using uhci_hcd
+      [10572.797239] cdc_acm 5-1:1.0: This device cannot do calls on its own. It is not a modem.
+      [10572.797285] cdc_acm 5-1:1.0: ttyACM0: USB ACM device
+      ```
+     *  In this case, the newly plugged in USB is register to ttyACM0, which you can find on /dev/ttyACM0
+* If you don't already have the Dev Console, get it http://rusefi.com/build_server/rusefi_bundle.zip (part of the same bundle) Take note rusEfi dev console required java 1.7+
+* When you launch the Dev Console, it will ask you to select which serial address it should use. However you can specify that when you launch it by specifying a command line parameter as noted below.
+  * Windows
+    `java -jar rusefi_console.jar COM15`
+  * Linux (ubuntu 11.10)
+    `java -jar rusefi_console.jar /dev/ttyACM0`
+* You got it to open, great! Now install gray jumper wire as noted above between pins PD1 and PC6. 
+* Select "digital sniffer" in the dev console and you should see the simulated signal. 
+* Install the blue jumper wire as noted between pins PD2 and PA5.
+* You should see the crank signals as noted in the "sniffer" tab.
+
+Update: there is also a lazier way to self-stimulate now, you would not need the jumper wires. That's the "enable self_stimulation" command you invoke via the dev console. The downside? Do not forget to undo it at some point with "disable self_stimulation"
+
+At this point, the Dev Console should be up and running. Play around with it and see what you can learn. Also note, it as some functionality as noted below. 
+
+* If used together with the build-in position sensor emulator, the console allows some level of testing on the bench, without a real engine or any additional hardware. The most useful feature is the plain signal sniffer - both real inputs and generated signals can go into it and this is actually quite handy. Another useful feature is the text log.
+* You can use the console to invoke rusEfi commands and control the internal flow using the 'Messages Central' tab
+![Messages Central](Images/messages_central.png)
+
+## Tuner Studio
+
+[HOWTO create TunerStudio project](HOWTO_create_tunerstudio_project)
+
+See also http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Software:TunerStudio_connectivity
+
+## Power via 12V supply
+
+* Verify the LED TODO is bright, this indicates the STM is being powered.
+* Verify you can still connect via Java console program
+* Verify with Tunerstudio that you can connect, then set the simulation blah to blah and your STM should start generating a signal on pin Blah. 
+* Install jumper TODO, this will connect the simulated crank angle signals to the input decoding signal. At this point you should the the RPM varying on the Java Console.
+* Take your best stab at making look up tables and such via TS.
+
+## Prepare engine wiring
+
+* Connect TPS, MAP, IAT, and other such analog signals to the IO board. 
+* Connect 12V system / battery to the IO board connector. 
+* Calibrate the sensors using TS and Java console as required.
+* Crank engine and see RPM's are registering correctly on the Java Console.
+* Connect LED to pins TODO, which will blink at TDC. Verify that TDC is correct by shining on a crank wheel like a timing light. PS: actually right now we do not have this - see https://sourceforge.net/p/rusefi/tickets/291/
+* Connect injectors and ignition as required and see if it will start.
+
+## Tuning the engine
+
+[Get Tuning](Get-tuning-with-TunerStudio-and-your-rusEFI)
+
+See also http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:First_engine_start
+
+See also http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Error_codes
+
+## Prerequisites
+This section assumes 
+* You have hardware connected to an engine.
+* You can connect to the rusEFI board with a USB cable, or some communications stream.
+* You have a PC which is running Tuner Studio, and can connect it to the board
+* You have calibrated the sensors like TPS, MAP, crank decoder, etc
+* WO2 or tail pipe probe to measure your AFR or HP. 
+* This tutorial assumes that you want speed density, which is good for peak power applications and it's assumed you are tuning the load tables. 
+
+## Fuel tuning 
+### Some quick theory
+Most people who do the after market ECU are looking to get around the track faster. This section assumes you are looking for fast track times. This commonly means you are looking for minimal fuel consumption when you are maintaining speed or decreasing speed, then max power when you are at higher engine loads. Every person will be differ in what RPM and loads they want power vs fuel efficiency. The below graphic shows how you vary horse power as you change AFR. 
+
+![Airflow chart](Images/Airfuel.jpg)
+
+If you have a V8 in a Miata, and you need a lite load perhaps like when approaching a turn, you might have a load around 20%. At this point you have enough power and you want to minimize fuel consumption. Such that you get the most out of the fuel in the tank. Then when you are say 80% or 100% load you want maximum power, as you do not have enough power and you want every Hp you can get. So your tuning table around the 20% would be tuned to have an AFR around 16, while when at 100% load your tune will be tuned for something closer to 11.5 to 12.5, and a variety of AFRs based on your driving habits, race event, personal preferences etc. You will take your best stab to guess what is the most optimal way to get to the finish line fastest. 
+
+However if you have a 4 cyl Miata, then your load under the same conditions as noted above would be about 40% instead of 20%, which means your tuning table will be adjusted differently at different points. As well if you have a 4 cyl Miata with a turbo, you might be at around 30% under these same conditions. 
+
+The tuning tables are mostly for tuning the steady state conditions. There is also a bunch of tuning to deal with the short term dynamic conditions, as well there is tuning for cold engine conditions, etc. Every one has a different tuning preference for a variety of reasons, some good some not so good. This tutorial is going to make some suggestions and keep in mind there are going to be lots of different opinions and different reasons for doing things differently. This tutorial is just a suggestions, and will suggest you first start with a warm engine and tune the load table such that you get the AFR's that you are looking for. Then tune the wall wetting, then tune the cold start conditions. 
+
+## Quick version 
+### Manual tuning via TS
+Open TS, and guess at your fuel table, it will probably look similar to the below. 
+
+![Target AFR chart](Images/Target-afr.jpg)
+
+Guess at your spark table it will look something similar to this
+
+[insert picture]
+
+Once you have a guess that seems to keep things running, tune 100% by running TS and looking at your WO2 AFR, find a long hill put it in high gear and put your foot the the floor. Keep adjusting the cell to keep your AFT at about 11.5 to 12.5. Doing this on a dyno is better as you don't really care about this range of AFR you care about max HP which is at an unknown AFR. Some how adjust this for full load and keep an eye on your AFT. If you can't get the AFT in the 11.5 to 12.5 range, it likely means your fuel pump is not providing enough fuel. Once you know full load, do this for medium load, low load, etc, until you have a fuel table that you are happy with. 
+
+Once fuel is good, then do the same with spark, again adjust for max power and if possible tune with a knock sensor. If you detect knock stop advancing, and back away by perhaps 2 to 4 degrees. Don't get to close to the absolute limit, as variations in temperature, pressure, carbon build up, etc could change this limit. Once spark is adjusted, go back and re-do fuel, then again back to spark, keep doing this until they are both perfect. 
+
+### Auto tuning via TS
+
+This requires a resisted version of TS. The general procedure here is similar to the manual tune method, but you set the desired AFR in a table drive it around and TS will adjust the cells to get the AFR that it's commanded to get to. While is is effective, peak power can be obtained via dyno, not by AFR measurements, so this is great for those that don't have a dyno, but if you are looking for peak power, you really need a dyno. 
+
+### Wall wetting tuning
+Once it's operational, you now want to tune the dynamic such that you get faster throttle response. 
+TBD
+
+### Cold temperature
+Once it's working well and reacts well to quick changes in the long pedal, you'll want cold temperature enrichments such that it starts nice and easy. 
+TBD
+
+see also [http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Software:Fuel_Control Fuel Control]
+see also [http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Software:Ignition_Control]
+see also [http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Software:Idle_control]
+see also [http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1124&p=21278]
+
+## Share your tune
+
+### Take notes and collect information
+
+We all benefit from from sharing the tune, so we would like to suggest you share it. By sharing it others may notice issues with your tune, as well it can function as a starting point for other which you have likely used when you did your tune. By sharing your tune, we can better help people when they are doing their initial configurations. After all it's not like your tune is something you need to protect and can't share, so we would find it nice if you were to share your tune.
+
+Take notes about your setup, preferably including what ever parameters you can provide, like what you have for intake components, exhaust, CAM, pistons, geographical location, ect. We hope to have a web page form that can be used to simplify the process. For now, we hare hoping you can post it in the forum, or e-mail it to a developer. 
+
+### Post on forum or e-mail the tune
+
+Find the forum sub section where people are sharing tunes, then fill out your posting the with the suggested XYZ format. At the time of writing this most of this tuning sharing stuff new and pre-alpha. 
+
+
+
+## Communications
+
+### USB TTL cable
+
+**Question:** found [here](http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=210&start=29)
+
+I'd like to try to connect to Tuner Studio and see what happens. I have a USB/TTL device which looks the same as the photo that Andrey posted. What do I connect to what and what is the procedure?
+
+**Answer:**
+
+![Serial Cable Connection](Images/615px-SerialCableConnection.jpg)
+
+1. Verify pin assignments for your USB TTL cable.  Colors might be slightly different from what is shown above and there maybe additional wires which are not needed.  Before connecting the TTL to the brain board, connect it to your desktop and install the drivers if required.
+
+2. Once the USB TTL Serial device and drivers are installed, connect GND wire to GND on the brain board
+
+  * connect RX wire of the TTL to pin PC10
+
+  * connect TX wire of the TTL to pin PC11
+
+3. Set up the new serial port @ 38400 with 8/N/1 no flow control using your favorite terminal
+
+4. Hit button 't' on the keyboard. You should get something like this:
+
+ `4073 Alive`
+
+
+This UART/real serial is just another way to connect either TunerStudio or rusEfi console to the firmware. By combining both microUsb virtual serial and TTL real serial one can connect to rusEfi with both TunerStudio and rusEfi console simultaneously.
+
+See also http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Software:TunerStudio_connectivity
+
+## rusEfi firmware
+
+http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Software:Trigger
+
+## LEDs
+
+blue LED: communication status. This LED blinks constantly. Slower blinking if you use serial console or USB is disconnected, faster blinking if USB console is connected
+
+green LED: blinking while engine is running, constant ON while cranking and OFF if engine is stopped
+
+red LED: constant ON in case of firmware FATAL error. Many people confuse red LED with orange LED. The red LED is located closer to the black reset button.
+
+orange LED: warning: blinking in case of trigger input decoding warning or other firmware warning, or in case of serial bus exchange. Orange LED is located closer to the main chip.
+
+![Red LED](Images/red_LED.png)
+
+## Jumpers
+
+### Communication mode
+microUSB channel is more sensitive to noise but it's faster
+
+See also http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Software:TunerStudio_connectivity
+
+### Configuration reset
+Grounding PD6 resets saved configuration to default state - see http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=373&p=9571&hilit=PD6#p9571
+
+### Board Testing mode
+
+Grounding PB0 enables board testing mode. See http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Test_Mode
+
+## FAQ
+Q: How do I change settings? Would I need to compile source code?
+
+A: No, a majority of members use the rusEFI bundle for any TunerStudio or Firmware changes needed.
+
+Q: Low side, high side... Too complicated! Where do I hook my coils?!
+
+A: There is some variation between vehicles and components. Please use [rusEFI forums](https://rusefi.com/forum) for custom installation help!
+
+Q: I've made some changes in Tuner Studio & hit Burn. 'Need Burn' has appeared but the values are not there after rusEfi reset?
+
+A: rusEfi does not write to internal flash memory while your engine is running. In order to really write the values into the permanent memory you would need to stop the engine (or disconnect your stimulator). Online tuning is not affected by this issue - you can still tune and the new values would be applied right away, they just would not be saved until you stop the engine.
+
+Q: I've remapped some analog inputs and outputs but nothing has changed, looks like the old pins are still used for output?
+
+A: For most of the pinout changes to be applied you need to reset rusEfi. Do not forget to stop the engine so that the new config is saved into internal memory!

HOWTO_Get_Running.md

@@ -1 +0,0 @@
-## Place holder for startup guide 

HOWTO_quick_start.md

@@ -1,26 +0,0 @@
-# What to do while you wait for your hardware: #
-
-1. [Download the rusEFI bundle](Download) for your hardware. 
-
-1. Uncompress the bundle and launch the rusEFI console. Hit the "Install Drivers" button to install the Virtual Com Port and ST-Link drivers. If necessary the bundle will also help you install java run-time.
-
-![console](FAQ/images/rusEfi_console/rusEfi_console_start_screen.png)
-
-3. ** IF you have a Frankenso or Frankenstein board with th FT232 Chip, Download and install [FTDI's usb VCP driver on your PC](http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm).** 
-
-4. Get friendly on the [rusEFI forums](https://rusefi.com/forum) Introduce yourself, start a build thread, and ask questions.
-
-5. [Install TunerStudio (version 3.0.24 or newer is needed)](http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/downloads)
-
-6. Start a new project, save to a folder that you specify, and choose the rusefi.ini file from the bundle.
-
-![project](FAQ/images/TunerStudio_new_project.png)
-
-# FAQ
-Q: How do I change settings? Would I need to compile source code?
-
-A: No, a majority of members use the rusEFI bundle for any TunerStudio or Firmware changes needed.
-
-Q: Low side, high side... Too complicated! Where do I hook my coils?!
-
-A: There is some variation between vehicles and components. Please use [rusEFI forums](https://rusefi.com/forum) for custom installation help!  

Pages_Fuel.md

@@ -9,6 +9,7 @@
 <details><summary><u>Fuel Algorithms</u></summary>
 
 * [Fuel Overview](Fuel_Overview)
+* [Cranking](Cranking)
 * [AlphaN](AlphaN)
 * [Speed Density](Speed_Density)
 * [Mass Air Flow](MAF)
@@ -36,7 +37,7 @@
 * [Converting from Carb](how_to_convert_from_carburetor_to_EFI)
 * [GDI Status](GDI_Status)
 * [Basic Injector wiring](FAQ-Basic-Wiring-and-Connections)
-* Fuel injectors - Coming Soon
+* [Fuel injectors](Fuel-Injectors)
 
 </details>