wiki unification

FAQ/HOWTO_tune_electronic_throttle_body.md

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+
+### Step 1. Set bias curve.
+
+
+1.1 Calibrate throttle position sensor in your electronic throttle body.
+
+Zero position usually requires you to push throttle closed. Full throttle would definitely require you to push throttle open.
+
+Default position is usually somewhere around 4-8%.
+
+1.1 Feed-forward curve/Bias curve.
+
+"Bias curve" is a curve of PWM duty cycle values which kind of get TPS close to desired value, for each of the 8 points on the curve.
+It measures how much duty is required to hold the throttle at that spot.
+
+The goal is that at position X, the bias will somewhat hold it there on it's own.
+
+Bias is also known as feed-forward.
+
+We are interested in positions like 0, between-0-and-default, default, a bit open, a bit more open, 50% open, wide open, 
+
+Set P=I=D=0. Set curve to all zeros.
+
+Now use offset (offset is same thing as constant bias) to manually control duty cycle. Try different values and see which offset sets throttle to closed, which offset
+starts to open throttle, which offset is enough to open throttle completely.
+  
+

FAQ/How Do I Set My Trigger Offset.md

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+# **DISABLE FUEL WHEN ADJUSTING TRIGGER OFFSET** #
+
+### FIRE DANGER ###
+
+In TunerStudio, open "Injection"->"Injection Settings". Set "Enabled" to "false", and save the setting. In your fuse box, find and remove the fuse(s) that power your injectors. To set your trigger offset, you will be cranking your engine and firing your plugs, but you do not want the engine to start. Take any means necessary to prevent fire, and have a fire extinguisher ready (you should already have one).
+
+
+# Setting Trigger Offset #
+The following guide will provide a general overview of finding and setting the trigger offset value to use in tunerstudio. This is an engine-specific value, but you may be able to use another's settings as a starting point if they have a similar trigger setup on their engine. You should always make sure your trigger setting is accurate to your engine, as this value influences every other value in your tune.
+
+## Why Do I Care About Trigger Offset? ##
+In order for your engine to run properly, the ECU must know *exactly* where the engine is in its rotation. This is determined by your trigger solution, but there's a catch. In many cases, the trigger pattern does not properly align with the position of the engine, and this is what trigger offset is for. Trigger offset is a fixed value that tells the ECU how much the position of the trigger differs from top dead center on cylinder #1.
+
+## How do I Set My Trigger Offset? ##
+To set your trigger offset setting, you must determine how far your ECU is from your engine position. The easiest way to do this is to use a timing light on cylinder #1 and check its position on your engine's timing marks. Set your ignition timing to a fixed value in TunerStudio which corresponds with a mark on your crank pulley. Your engine manufacturer may suggest a value, or 0 may be used. This is highly engine dependant, but critically important. While cranking the engine, watch the timing light and see if it's behind or ahead of the mark you chose. Adjust the trigger offset up or down depending on what direction you want to move the mark. Continue this process until the light is aligned with the mark, and your trigger offset is now set. You can now change your settings back to dynamic timing in TunerStudio and attempt to start your engine.
+
+## Step-by-Step ##
+
+1. Have a fire extinguisher ready.
+2. Disable Fuel. Disable injection in TunerStudio. Pull injector fuses. Drain carburetors.
+3. Set ignition timing mode to fixed. Set an advance value that corresponds to a mark on your crank pulley. 0 will correspond with the TDC mark, or your manufacturer may specify different values.
+4. Remove spark plugs. This will eliminate compression in the cylinders, allowing the engine to turn freely and give better results when checking timing.
+5. Connect a timing light and spark plug to the #1 spark plug wire. In engines with individual coils, you may need to get creative here, such as extending the coil with a spare plug wire to give somewhere to attach the timing light. Ground the threads on this spark plug somewhere on the engine.
+6. Crank the engine, watching the position of your engine's timing marks. Adjust the trigger offset value up or down (negative values are allowed) until the marks are properly aligned. This is now your trigger offset.
+7. Reinstall your spark plugs, re-enable fuel, set your timing to something sensible (manufacturer recommendations) and try to start your engine. Verify the timing again with a timing light, and make any adjustments if needed.

FAQ/cranking.md

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+
+During cranking, two curves control the amount of fuel injected:
+"cranking coolant temperature multiplier" and "cranking duration multiplier".
+  
+Colder engine usually requires more cranking fuel, cranking fuel usually tapers down during cranking since more fuel is needed in the beginning and not really needed later.
+
+Of you have flooded your engine, i.e. got too much fuel on your spark plugs, "Cylinder Cleanup" is recommenced - i.e. cranking with wide open throttle without any fuel squired into the cylinders
+in order to ventilate your cylinders.
+
+As of April 2019 "base fuel pulse" is deprecated, "1" is recommended.
+
+
+
+Typical 4 cylinder engine with 200 cc/min injectors, sequential injection, base fule = 1ms.
+
+![table](cranking_4cylinder.png)
+
+For 1.6 Honda cranking settings see https://rusefi.com/forum/download/file.php?id=4536 (note that "base fuel)
+" = 1 is recomended these days, with correspodning change to cranking temperature multiplier) 
+
+
+
+See also https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Software:Fuel_Control#Fuel_control_during_cranking

FAQ/do_i_need_wideband_oxygen_sensor.md

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+
+Short answer is YES :)
+
+TODO

FAQ/how_to_convert_from_carburetor_to_EFI.md

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+# Converting an Engine to (port) Fuel Injection
+
+**If there is an OEM EFI solution for your engine, you should probably start there.**
+
+If no such system exists, or is prohibitively expensive, or if you just love punishment: read on.
+
+## For engines with only carbs or throttle-body injection wanting to convert to port injection, here's (some) of what you will need:
+
+### Intake manifold
+Somewhere to put your injectors and throttle body/bodies. Odds are, your current intake manifold is designed for carbs, and won't work particularly well with EFI. You will need to find/make a manifold that you can mount to your engine that has spaces for injectors and a throttle body. It may be possible to modify your existing manifold to add injector ports, but this is beyond the scope of this document. Individual throttle bodies (ITBs) are also an option here, but they get expensive very quickly and you will need to decide what setup is right for your goals.
+
+### Throttle Body (maybe more)
+Not complicated. A door to let air into your engine, much like the butterflies on your carbs. Nothing particularly special. More throttle bodies (ITBs) quickly add cost and complexity. You will also want a throttle position sensor for better engine response and efficiency.
+
+### Injectors
+Injectors are all pretty similar in physical size, and can be made to work as long as you have the right flow rate for your engine. Fuel requirements can be calculated based on engine size, RPM, and efficiency. You should aim to not have your injectors exceed 80% of their maximum flow rate during use.
+
+### Fuel Rail
+Not explicitly necessary, but makes connecting to your injectors easier. Some (older) injectors use short lengths of high pressure hose to connect to a fuel supply, but most use a machined manifold connected by o-ring seals to each injector. This will likely have to be custom, unless your engine had a factory EFI option or good aftermarket support.
+
+### O2 sensor
+Not actually necessary! (Not exactly anyway). rusEFI and many other engine management systems can operate in what is called "open-loop" mode, meaning there is no feedback and self tuning. Once the engine is tuned and the tables are saved, the O2 sensor is just dead weight (as far as the EMS is concerned).
+
+### Trigger signal
+The system needs to know where the engine is so that it knows when to send fuel. If your engine uses a distributor, you can use the ignition pulse to trigger fuel. This isn't very precise, but it works well enough. For more precision, you'll need some sort of crank angle sensor. This can be any number of things, but is most commonly a hall-effect (hall) or variable-reluctance (VR) sensor directly driven by the crankshaft. For maximum precision and performance, the recommended setup is a trigger on the crankshaft as well as a camshaft sensor to correctly identify where your engine is in the 720 degree cycle (for 4-stroke engines). This is another great place to look for OEM solutions, such as from later model vehicles.
+
+### Engine Management
+You're reading about rusEFI, so that's what we're going to recommend (probably). This is alpha-stage hardware and software, but it should be totally manageable. Get a preassembled board (you'll understand why I say this if you don't) and get ready to learn.
+
+### Other Sensors
+There are a number of different fueling algorithms, and each requires some different sensors. Intake Air Temperature (IAT), and Engine Coolant Temperature (Oil Temperature for air-cooled engines) are good things to have no matter what you use. Air flow is measured using MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) or MAF (Mass AirFlow), and your choice will depend on your engine characteristics and desired performance (MAP is generally recommended).
+
+### Additional Supported Sensors
+rusEFI includes support for thermocouples for measuring EGT (Exhaust Gas Tempertaure), battery voltage (for voltage compensation and alternator control), and whatever else you can imagine and build!

FAQ/rusefi_chat.md

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+
+[rusEfi forum](https://rusefi.com/forum/) is the central meeting point for everything rusEfi but there are also:
+
+- Slack at https://rusefi.slack.com/ see https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1198
+
+- Russian-speaking Skype group channel - стукнитесь в arro239 в Скайпе, чтобы добавиться.
+
+- https://www.facebook.com/rusEfiECU/