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## _WARNING: An electronic throttle, if misconfigured or damaged, has the ability to open the throttle without your foot on the pedal, potentially leading to engine damage [or a crash](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2009%E2%80%9311_Toyota_vehicle_recalls). Proceed with caution!_
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rusEFI supports electronic throttle body control. Also called drive by wire (DBW), there is no physical cable between the throttle pedal, or pedal position sensor (PPS), and the throttle. The PPS is only a sensor that measures how far depressed it is. The ECU interprets the information from the PPS, and converts it to a desired position for the throttle. The ECU then drives the throttle plate to the desired position and compares the throttle plate position using the throttle position sensor (TPS) to the desired position set by the PPS and makes adjustments as requried.
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rusEFI supports electronic throttle body control. Also called drive by wire (DBW), there is no physical cable between the throttle pedal, or pedal position sensor (PPS), and the throttle. The PPS is only a sensor that measures how far depressed it is. The ECU interprets the information from the PPS, and converts it to a desired position for the throttle. The ECU then drives the throttle plate to the desired position and compares the throttle plate position using the throttle position sensor (TPS) to the desired position set by the PPS and makes adjustments as required.
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There are several benefits by allowing the ECU to control the position of the throttle.
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Electronic throttles typically consist of:
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- A brushed DC motor. Positive torque pushes the throttle open, and negative torque pushes the throttle closed.
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- A TPS. This is an angle sensor, commonly a potentiometer or hall sensor, which tells the ECU the actual position of the throttle. This is used as feedback to the ECU to accurately set and hold the throttle position.
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- A "limp home" return spring. This spring holds the throttle position open slightly, commonly 3%-10%, appoximately enough to idle. This allows the vehicle to "limp home" in the event the ECU can no longer operate the throttle.
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- A "limp home" return spring. This spring holds the throttle position open slightly, commonly 3%-10%, approximately enough to idle. This allows the vehicle to "limp home" in the event the ECU can no longer operate the throttle.
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rusEFI hardware and software has been designed to work with all three of these parts of the throttle.
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- DC motor driver H-bridge(s) to control the motor. An H-bridge can apply a variable voltage using PWM in either direction. Both directions is important to be able to open and close the throttle completely.
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rusEFI hardware and software have been designed to work with all three of these parts of the throttle.
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- DC motor driver H-bridge(s) to control the motor. An H-bridge can apply a variable voltage using PWM in either direction. Both directions are important to be able to open and close the throttle completely.
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- Analog inputs and corresponding software to measure both the TPS and PPS.
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- A control algorithm that uses a table to linearize the effects of the return spring and PID to move the throttle to the targeted position.
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**If you have a pre-assembled board, ignore this section! The default settings are correct.**
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Different H-bridge chips are controlled differently. So far we have experiences three different ways:
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Different H-bridge chips are controlled differently. So far we have experienced three different ways:
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### VNH2SP30
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PWM on both direction pins, one for forward another one for reverse.
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TLE7209 is an example of two wire mode.
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TLE7209 is an example of two-wire mode.
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# Pinouts
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The challenge of rusEfi as of 2020 is the fact that hardware is way ahead of software at this point. With just a few programmers and the complexity of the project, it would be a while until normal users would be benefiting from rusEfi because of the complexity and knowledge required.
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But if for any reason you would prefer to use rusEfi and look for any specific feature, money can probably help you!
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See also https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1642
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At the moment we do not have code for launch control.
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While we have some pieces and proposals, nothing was properly tested or documented. Most of rusEFI contributors are
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into road racing so launch is a bit off the radar :(
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See also https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=871
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See also [Feature Requests Feature Bounty Program](Feature_Requests_Feature_Bounty_Program)
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cranking.md
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cranking.md
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</details>
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Cranking mode is defined as any RPM value below 'cranking RPM' setting. During cranking, special fuel and timing logic is applied.
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Cranking mode is defined as any RPM value below the 'cranking RPM' setting. During cranking, special fuel and timing logic is applied.
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<!-- this magic '>' make a one line quote block -->
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* [IAC settings](#iac-settings)
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* [Post-cranking fuel enrichment settings](#post-cranking-short-time-fuel-enrichment)
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rusEfi has separate cranking control strategy for your first couple of engine revolutions - usually you want more fuel, different timing and simultaneous injection to start an engine. Engine would start rich, as long as it's not too rich, as long as you have close-enough cranking timing angle.
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rusEFI has a separate cranking control strategy for your first couple of engine revolutions - usually, you want more fuel, different timing and simultaneous injection to start an engine. The engine would start rich, as long as it's not too rich, as long as you have a close-enough cranking timing angle.
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> <img src="FAQ/icons/hint.png" style="vertical-align:middle"> *Hint: Click on the screenshot below to see more info on particular settings:*
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> <img src="FAQ/icons/hint.png" style="vertical-align:middle"> *Hint: Click on the screenshot below to see more info on the particular settings:*
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<table border="0"><tr><td width="362" height="609" background="FAQ/cranking/settings_back.png" valign="top"> <img src="FAQ/cranking/settings_01.png" valign="top" style="vertical-align: top;"/>
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<a href="#cranking-rpm-limit" title="Cranking RPM limit"><img src="FAQ/cranking/settings_02.png" valign="top" style="vertical-align: top;"/></a>
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## Priming Fuel Pulse
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### Duration at -40C degrees
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*Prime injection pulse uses for Wall wetting before cranking. You can set prime pulse for the cold engine (-40 celsius degree) and set hotest temperature for use this setting.*
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*Prime injection pulse uses for Wall wetting before cranking. You can set-prime pulse for the cold engine (-40 celsius degree) and set the hottest temperature for use this setting.*
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*We use interpolation from smaller CLT to biggest CLT, to make line function for pulse width and interpolate pulse width from bigger(we set it in settings) to zero(when CLT>= falloff temperature).*
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*Prime pulse make a big weight when you have a long distance from injector to engine valve.*
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*Prime pulse make a big weight when you have a long-distance from the injector to the engine valve.*
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<details><summary>More...</summary>
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See also isFasterEngineSpinUpEnabled
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<details><summary>More...</summary>
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To adjust cranking fuel, use ```set cranking_fuel XXX``` command, where XXX is number of total fuel squirt duration in milliseconds. See also http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Software:dev_console_commands#Fuel_Control
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To adjust cranking fuel, use ```set cranking_fuel XXX``` command, where XXX is the number of total fuel squirt duration in milliseconds. See also http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Software:dev_console_commands#Fuel_Control
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</details>
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During cranking, two curves control the amount of fuel injected:
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"cranking coolant temperature multiplier" and "cranking duration multiplier".
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Colder engine usually requires more cranking fuel, cranking fuel usually tapers down during cranking since more fuel is needed in the beginning and not really needed later.
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A Cold engine usually requires more cranking fuel, cranking fuel usually tapers down during cranking since more fuel is needed in the beginning and not really needed later.
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Of you have flooded your engine, i.e. got too much fuel on your spark plugs, "Cylinder Cleanup" is recommenced - i.e. cranking with wide open throttle without any fuel squired into the cylinders
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If you have flooded your engine, i.e. got too much fuel on your spark plugs, "Cylinder Cleanup" is recommenced - i.e. cranking with wide-open throttle without any fuel squired into the cylinders
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in order to ventilate your cylinders.
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As of April 2019 "base fuel pulse" is deprecated, "1" is recommended.
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Typical 4 cylinder engine with 200 cc/min injectors, sequential injection, base fule = 1ms.
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Typical 4 cylinder engine with 200 cc/min injectors, sequential injection, base fuel = 1ms.
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![table](FAQ/cranking_4cylinder.png)
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For 1.6 Honda cranking settings see https://rusefi.com/forum/download/file.php?id=4536 (note that "base fuel" = 1 is recomended these days, with correspodning change to cranking temperature multiplier)
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For 1.6 Honda cranking settings see https://rusefi.com/forum/download/file.php?id=4536 (note that "base fuel" = 1 is recommended these days, with a corresponding change to cranking temperature multiplier)
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# Knock Sense
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TODO
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