rusefi_documentation/Hardware-Frankenstein.md

# Frankenstein

## EFFECTIVELY RETIRED BOARD as of Dec 2021

[Frankenstein forum thread](http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=359&p=4176)

Bare PCB

![Frankenstein Front](Hardware/Frankenstein/Frankenstein_v01_front.jpg)
![Frankenstein Back](Hardware/Frankenstein/Frankenstein_v01_back.jpg)

3D render

![Assembled Frankenstein](Hardware/Frankenstein/F_assembled.jpg)

## Assembly instructions

### Step 1: MMC/SD card & USB TTL

Let's begin with [communication module](http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=215)

![Frankenstein Communication Module](Hardware/Frankenstein/comm_module.png)

I'm impatient so P352 SD card module goes on first. Together with the right 25x2 header (P51/P353/P402) this gets me a working SD card. Hurray, this board is not a total failure! Now it's time to C357 to make things right.

Now USB TTL interface: it would not work if you just solder the U351 chip and the J351 miniUSB connector.
C355 (0.1uF same thing as 100nF)

### Step 2a: Hall sensor input

While we can use the MAX9926 VR chip for Hall sensor, the small chip is a hard to solder and the chip is relatively expensive - so I'd rather use op-amp channels for Hall sensor input. I have two Hall sensors so I would build two identical channels.

![Hall Input Op Amp](Hardware/Frankenstein/hall_input_op_amp.png)

Both would use U203 quad op-amp
C291 is 0.1uF
C310 & C320: input RC filter 10000PF/0.01uF

Inp11 would be trigger channel1: R310 1K pull-up, R311 500K pull-down, R312 10K current limiting, R313 100 smth, R314 1.5K & R315 1.5K voltage divider.
Inp12 would be trigger channel2: R320 1K pull-up, R321 500K pull-down, R322 10K current limiting, R323 100 smth, R324 1.5K & R325 1.5K voltage divider.

For trigger channel 1 there will be an ugly yellow wire between W211 and PC6, and for second channel it would be a green wire between W212 and PA5

### step 3: Analog Inputs

The legend on the back assigns throttle position sensor to INP2 (stm pin PA3/ADC channel 3), intake air to INP3 (stm pin PC3/ADC 13) coolant temperature sensor to INP4 (stm pin PC1/ADC 11).

Inp2 (stm pin PA3/ADC3) would be throttle position sensor: no pull-up, R221 500K pull-down, R222 10K current limiting, R223 100 smth, R224 1.5K & R225 1.5K voltage divider.
Inp3 (stm pin PC3/ADC13) would be intake air: R230 ??? pull-up, no pull-down, R232 10K current limiting, R233 100 smth, R234 1.5K & R235 1.5K voltage divider.
Inp4 (stm pin PC1/ADC11) would be coolant temperature sensor: R24x ??? pull-up, no pull-down, R242 10K current limiting, R243 100 smth, R244 1.5K & R245 1.5K voltage divider.

Inp1 (stm pin PA1/ADC1) is my MAP sensor: no pull-up, R211 1K pull-down

Inp5 (stm pin PA0/ADC0) Battery voltage. Here we would need a voltage divider on the input side:
R252 10K current limiting, R253 100 smth, R254 1.5K & R255 1.5K voltage divider.

### High side driver

![Frankenstein High Side Circuit](Hardware/Frankenstein/high_side.png)

C601, C602 & C603 are 0.1uF
R609, R612 - 100R

With the current issue - we've used MSOP case by mistake, this one is hard to solder. Be sure not to use too much paste. Not sure if you should even try it with soldering wire.

### Low side driver

The resistors in the left row are 20R, the ones in the right row are 1K.
The MOSFETs are mounted upside down: the notch should be on top, the part number & ST logo are upside down.

![Frankenstein Low Side Circuit](Hardware/Frankenstein/low_side.png)
![Low Side Circuit Soldered](Hardware/Frankenstein/low_side_soldered.jpg)

### CAN module

![Frankenstein CAN Module](Hardware/Frankenstein/can_module.png)

C471 is 0.1uF
C472 is 4.7uF
R472 10K something
R473 120R CAN termination

### VR input

![Frankenstein VR Input circuit](Hardware/Frankenstein/vr_input.png)

C101 & C102 are 1000pF
C103 is 10uF
C104 is 0.1uF
R102, R103, R104, R106, R107, R108, R109 & R110 are 5K
R113 & R114 are 10K

## Random notes

We are still working on our own power supply, for now you would probably need a "12 to 5v power supply module" from eBay:

![Power Supply](Hardware/Frankenstein/power_supply_3A.jpg)

For the "low side to high side" hack you would need to mount through-hole resistors in a tower/Manhattan style.

There is no SD module part number from a major US supplier. TODO: figure this out, but just get them on eBay - see [forum thread](http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=215&start=10#p4896)

FT232 validation:

pin 15: USBDP 1.5K pull-up to to 3.3 - green USB wire
pin 16: USBDM - white USB wire
pin 17: 3vout

Q: 'USB Device cannot be recognized'?

A: Take a spare USB cable & cut it to check continuity between white wire and pin 16.