Frankenso was designed with Mazda Miata NA pinout in mind. The most easily available ECU harness pig tail comes from OBD-I Honda vehicles, different Honda vehicles use slightly different harness colors so the values given are pretty approximate, please use common sense. See connector details [here](OEM-connectors#64-pin)
Here is a video about how to chang these "Honda obd1 ecu" connector pins. It has also been found that the second stage release can be done with a flat hair clips can be used from the back side of the connector to release the pin.
[![Video How to Depin Honda and Acura OBD1 ECU Connectors](Hardware/Frankenso/depin.png)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lv02bCy0yQs)
Terminal Removal Tool Kit or glasses screwdriver would be needed to remove pins
## Power Supply
Inductors - black squarish things with "330" on them - orientation does not matter
R1001 - 1K resistor - orientation does not matter
D1001 - that's the trickiest one. I need a magnifying glass to see the dash which should be oriented towards the round electrolytic capacitor/connector section.
Yellow capacitors - should be oriented as on the picture
Round capacitor - should be oriented as on the picture
Red/black through-hole diodes - should be oriented as on the picture
F1001 - default setup is just a piece of wire. I use the red/black diode cut-off
U1001 regulator pads: +12v, +5, GND, +5, GND
![0.4 Power Supply](Hardware/Frankenso/power_supply_0_4.png)
If you're assembling your Frankenso yourself:
1. Install the components listed above plus R1002, D1005, Q1001, F1001, Q1001, and U1001 (check the schematic for your board revision - part numbers/requirements may change).
2. Check for +5V at a suitable location at the power supply - be careful not to bridge pins with meter tips!
3. If you've got +5V then install a jumper at W23 - its right next to L1002 (the left inductor) in the picture above - this will bring power to the rest of the board. If you don't have +5V then something is wrong.
## Cam/crank input
The cheaper way which works for Hall sensors only is to use op-amps channels.
For rev 0.1 you can use channels 9 & 11. To enable this configuration you would need to run a yellor jumper wire from the op-amp side of W211 to JPTODO to and a white hacky wire right from op-amp chip pads XX&XX to TODO.
![Jumper Wire](Hardware/Frankenso/jumper.png)
![Jumper Wire](Hardware/Frankenso/jumper_2.jpg)
## LCD screen
20x4 or 16x2 HD44780 character display
M3*12+6mm standoffs used to mount LCD screen with M3*5+6mm to hold it.
Contrast is controlled by R99
LCD power jumper: JPO1
The screen has 16 wiring holes, so does Frankenso. The middle 4 wires are not used, the other 6+6 wires on the sides should be connected.
## Low side
Low-side drivers are used for **most** (**all**?) high-Z injectors and relays.
![Low Side Drivers](Hardware/Frankenso/low_side.png)
pins PE0 & PE1 are used on discovery, on stock discovery board these pins are not driving properly
High-side could be set to drive logic leven (not high energy) +5v or +12v. Used for ''some'' coils like GM LS or Miata. Also used to drive Miata tachometer. Can not be used to drive 95 Neon coils since those need high energy drivers.
This section of the board is optional. Output voltage is controlled by a VP<>5V or VP<>12V jumper (P602/P604 on the picture below). Before version 0.4
all six channels were using the same jumper and the same voltage. On version 0.4 and later each pair of outputs has it's own set of jumpers.
Frankenso board has provisions for exhaust gas temperature but MAX31855 chips are not included in DIY kits and not populated on assembled boards. Special connectors would also be needed to connect the EGT sensing wire.
Compatible with a 64 pin DENSO case from the early 90s'. Mounting holes should also work with 48 pin case but you would need to cut a larger connector opening.
1993-1996 Toyota Camry 89661-06130 89661-06150 89661-06270 89661-33390 89661-33760
Different case but also works - Toyota Cressida - a bit tight with LCD 89661-30160 89661-30161
Known to not work great but could be an option if nothing else is available:
Mazda 929 JE48 18 881A
89661-32590 and 89661-32260 are taller cases. Kind of an option - only one mounting hole aligns perfectly but couple of holes could be massaged to work. TODO adjust Frankenso board accordingly.
89561-32021, 89561-32022, 89661-32231, 89661-12511, 89661-07010, 89661-07050 are using other connectors so these would require cutting
89661-3T270 board fits but no LCD access and no mounting hole line up
89661-22050 - not great option at all
89661-33070 seems to be taller
microUSB drill d=12mm / 1/2 inch
45mm (47?) from right edge / 7mm from top edge
Case cover bolts: M4/0.7mm countersunk Philips, 9mm thread length
## Component Options
**98% components on the board could be acquired on Degikey/Mouser, but a few are only available on eBay:**
68uH radial inductor 8x10 (Frankenso 0.5+)
33uh inductor 12x12x7 (Frankenso 0.1 - 0.4)
Micro SD Card Socket
20x4 character lcd hd44780
**Some components are available via major suppliers but just cheaper on eBay:**
2.54mm 2x25 Female Double Row Header
LM2596 5V TO-263 Voltage Regulator
7343 16V 220Uf Tantalum
32.768K Crystal MC-306
SN65HVD230 sop-8
In order to make cheap kits available we need to use generic eBay "2000 pcs 0805 parts". Good news most 0805 components have a wide acceptable range.
Part #/system|Schematics value|Acceptable range of values
R617 / high-side driver limit|20R|20R-22R
R602 / low-side LED status current limiting|2.7K|2.7K-3.3K